Towing a Yacht in Distress - the Techniques

by Sail-World Cruising on 12 Oct 2007 When a vessel is in distress on a lee shore and needs towing is not the time to start considering the best way of doing it.

Have YOU ever towed another vessel? If you have, you will either already have the skill and knowledge to do this competently, or you will have discovered that there are tricks and lessons that it is as well to have in your repertoire before you start.

Sometimes, doing the wrong thing at the wrong time can endanger both vessels, and a little pre-thought and basic equipment can make the difference between a successful tow and a disaster.

Basically, there are just five main points to be considered:

1.How to approach close enough to pass the tow line in safety
2.Where and how to make the tow line fast on one's own boat
3.Length of tow
4.How to take the tow and get it moving
5.Obligations of the towed vessel


1.How to approach close enough to pass the tow line in safety
If in the open sea in more or less calm water, approaching the tow presents little difficulty. You have only to decide to approach to windward or leeward, and get close enough to pass a heaving line. But it can be a challenge if the disabled boat is close to a lee shore and drifting on to it, as any mistake can endanger both craft.

The boat in distress should, if it has not already done so, anchor or use a sea anchor, and the other boat must always be in a situation where it is under complete control. If the vessel requiring assistance has an anchor or sea anchor out, it may be possible to sail across the warp and grapple it. Ensure the other vessel's anchor is not dislodged prematurely causing him to drift ashore.

If a dinghy is available, then, after getting as close as practicable to the disabled, craft, launch it, place the towline in it, and pay the line out over the stern and connect it ot the other boat. The dinghy can then be hauled back along the line to the towing vessel without much trouble. If that is not feasible some other method must be tried.

Lines have been floated down to the other vessels by using lifebuoys or similar, but it is not as easy as it sounds, as the catenary in the line tends to prevent the lifebuoy from drifting. A light preferably floating line is necessary. This can later be used to haul a heavier line between the craft and th tow secured with that. Using that method, a great deal of luck would be needed to the life buoy to drift in the exact direction of the vessel in distress, particularly in a heavy sea, as both craft would, of necessity, be moving about a lot. In those circumstances, a line-throwing rocket or rifle would invaluable, but such items are rarely found aboard yachts and pleasure craft.

Even a moderately strong fishing line with a heavy sinker for casting may be of service to haul a light rope, and inn turn a heavier rope. This takes time, of course, and assumes that other lines are readily available, but most yachts have flag halyards or similar, which should be unrove for the purpose.

2.Where to make the tow line fast aboard one's own boat.

Where to make the tow line fast aboard the towing vessel is a challenge in itself. It is not usually possible to steer if the tow is made fast aft, because of the weight exerted by the tow on the stern.
When the course is altered, most craft pivot on an axis about one third of the length from forward and that is therefore the best position to to make the line fast, as the steering will be less affected. In most yachts this is also the approximate situation of the mast. If the mast is stepped on the keel and passes through the deck it should be sufficiently strong to take the weight of the tow, particularly if a lashing is taken to the forward mooring post or around the boat fitting. With a mast stepped on deck, unless it is well bolted through in a tabernacle, there is a danger the heel of the mast could be tripped out of its housing or perhaps split or damaged by taking the tow there.

Mast steps are designed to take compression stresses vertically downwards rather than horizontal stresses, is if the mast is stepped on deck, the towline should be made fast to the forward mooring post or around the stern fitting and lashed off athwartships, to either strong chain plates or suitable cleats or winches around the mast area. That will allow the towing yacht to steer by pivoting in its normal place.

A tow made fast here will be a nuisance as it must lead aft across the cockpit, getting in the way of the main sheet and back stays. To minimise that a bridle should be fitted around the back stay, mainsheet and mizzen mast if there is one, to enable the tow line to pass either side of the them and out on the quarter, allowing the towing craft to manoeuvre.


3.The Length of Tow


The tow should be as long as practicable to prevent sudden jerks on the tow line caused by the different motions of each craft. The jerks, apart from throwing additional strain on the gear, also prevent the towing vessel from gathering way.

Should either vessel be fitted with chain anchor cables, they are ideal for the purpose, as the weight adds to the catenary of the tow line and acts as a shock absorber. If the chain cable is not available, which will usually be the case with modern leisure craft, then some weighty object, such as a spare anchor, should be added to the tow rope for the same purpose.

4.How to take the tow and get it moving

After securing the tow line and making ready, the tow should start slowly, with the tow line leading over the towing vessel's side, NOT the stern. The towing vessel should begin to tow by manoeuvring at a right angle to the tow, so that the line is tightened slowly and the tow starts to move. That prevents a sudden jerk on the line and adds initial power to get the tow under way. Only when the tow is moving should the course be set for the destination.

As maximum power is required for manoeuvring, it is obviously an advantage of the engine is running. Although is itself it may not be sufficient for the tow, it ads to the power available, and to the ability to steer, bu sending a greater volume of water past the rudder. If towing for long distances, this may not be practicable.

If towing to windward, a great deal of leeway will be made. Together with the vastly increased turning circle of the boat, that should be allowed for when manoeuvring. The boat must be sailed pretty free for speed and power, rather than sailed as close to the wind as possible for distance to windward.

One further point to remember is that the resistance of the tow through the water will throw a greater strain on the towing vessel's gear. When sailing normally that will be used up as greater speed, but with the tow the speed is resisted so the strain on the gear must increase. Therefore less sail than normal for the wind strength should be carried.

For reasons I have yet to discover, a towed vessel usually tows on the windward quarter of the towing vessel.

The towing vessel should always have a sharp knife, axe or bolt cutters handy to cut the tow line if necessary. It may mean the loss of the tow, but better one boat lost than two. The problem might then become one of saving life only, which is all a seaman is required to do. Property is only a secondary consideration, particularly if danger to life is involved. Any attempt to save property must be made only after full consideration has been given to the probability of danger to life. Loss of property involves underwriters – loss of life involves undertakers.

In reasonable conditions, a boat can successfully tow a craft about twice its own dead weight.

5.What the towed vessel should do.

If you're being towed you should help in every way possible, and not leave everything to the towing vessel.

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