Sailors' Guide to Resorts and Restaurants in San Fernando, La Union

by San Fernando Gweilo Mayor on 6 Mar 2011 (Please note that this information is all supplied by a contributor, and Sail-World.com and Sail-World Asia are not responsible for accuracy of content or opinions expressed therein.)

Back in the 1980’s a local beach resident who was an ex-Hong Kong surveyor, wrote an article for the San Fernando Race about all the resorts. This article is a tribute to Brian Lewis who passed away in September 2008.

Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the above comments contained in this article are accurate, they are the opinion of the writer who accepts no responsibility should anyone disagree, and there is certain to be someone who will disagree. It is intended to be impartial, with no favouritism to any resort or bar. The writer has been coming regularly to the beach area for over 20 years, so does have some knowledge of the area.

The Beach Area

The actual beach area is Paringao almost mid-way between Bauang and San Fernando. Virtually all the land on the beach side of the road is owned by the Trillamar Inc, and rented to the resorts except for China Sea and Southern Palms. Old man Trillo (96 in 2008) was a very astute businessman from the earlier days of the American R&R era, but has not been active in the last three years.

San Fernando is a major town and has many shops, supermarkets, wet and dry markets and the usual fast food places.
Bauang is much smaller, but does have a market and shops.

Getting to and from San Fernando

Many sailors will only sail one way, so those arriving need to fly back and replacement crew, wives, girlfriends, etc need to arrive. The only sensible ways are to fly either to Manila or Clark from Hong Kong, and Cebu Pacific now flies direct to Clark (Angeles) from Hong Kong. Unfortunately both airports suffer from a monopoly on the taxis, so it’s expensive to leave the airport. The cheapest way to get to San Fernando is to catch an aircon bus going North to Loaog, Vigan or San Fernando – about PHP300-400 each. The buses to Baguio do not go to San Fernando. Note there are two ‘San Fernando’s in the same direction, one near Angeles and the other in La Union. Make sure it’s the correct San Fernando.

If via Clark, get a taxi to Dau (dah-ooh) bus terminal (PHP430) about 5km away – all the buses going north stop there, it will take about five hours.

Manila is more difficult as you have to select a specific bus terminal All the bus companies have at least one terminal in Manila. Partas in Pasay is probably the closest, but Partas in Cubao has more frequent buses to La Union. Other bus lines to San Fernando and the north are Dominion, Viron, Genesis, Farinas, Maria De Leon and Philippine Rabbit. Genesis stops less often than the other ones. Victory Liner have the closest terminal in Pasay, but go to Baguio, however you can take this and change at Dau. Will take 7-8 hours. If returning via Manila get an aircon bus to Pasay , not Cubao as it’s much closer to the airport; then catch a metered taxi. It’s worthwhile to wait an extra few minutes by the roadside to catch a Pasay bus as it will save about an hour in Manila.

There is a private bus/van service between Angeles and San Fernando, but it leaves at 0830 hrs in the morning either way for PHP900. From Angeles Mon, Wed, Fri. From San Fernando Tues, Thur, Sat. Pick up from any hotel/resort.
The resort can organise a bus/van pick up from either airport for up to eight people. Manila PHP7,000-7,500. Angeles PHP5,000-5,800.

Hire a car and drive, but only any use if not going either way by boat. Rates start at only PHP900 per day from Clark (www.viprentacar.com.ph) and they will collect you from the airport. However you have to return the car to Clark.
San Fernando airport is now open with flights from Manila. All the resorts will pick you up from the airport. See 2011 Update.

Some people like to stay over in Angeles for a couple of nights either on the way there or the way back. All the air-con buses going North of Angeles stop at Dau bus terminal, or there are two private bus companies that cater mainly for expats visitors:
Southern Cross Shuttle departs Southern Cross Hotel, Ermita at 1530 hrs and Brass Knob, Angeles at 1300 hrs daily.
Fly the Bus departs Swagman Hotel, Ermita at 1130, 1530, 2030 hrs and Swagman Hotel Angeles 0800, 1200, 1500 hrs daily. (If you stay at the Swagman, Manila, they will pick you up or drop you off at the airport for free).

Returning is much easier – just go stand on the main road outside your San Fernando resort and flag down an aircon bus going south (but not to Baguio). There is one every 10-15 minutes and about seven different bus lines to choose from. A few have terminals in San Fernando, but then you limit your choice to that bus line. All stop at Dau bus terminal. For Manila get a bus to Pasay, not Cubao as it’s closer to the airport.

What You Need to Know When You’re There.

Transportation on the main road is either Jeepney or Trike. Jeepneys are fixed fare (PHP10 to Bauang, PHP12 to San Fernando in 2008, but seems to increase by a few Pesos every few months now). Trikes need to be negotiated before getting in. Aircon buses run every 10-15 mins in each direction between Manila and Vigan/Laoag – just stand on the side of the road and stop one. Traffic is bad, especially in Manila - allow at least eight or nine hours before you should be at the airport (more at sometimes of the year). An accident can block the road for two or three hours as well.

Walking between the resorts is dangerous on the main road, especially at night. The main road consists of a single road with a lane in either direction and a dirt shoulder each side, so overtaking vehicles use the opposite side of the road. Many vehicles overtake even when traffic is coming the other direction if it is smaller than the overtaking vehicle. This forces the smaller vehicle onto the dirt shoulder, where you could be walking. Likewise an overtaking vehicle maybe forced onto the opposite dirt shoulder if the vehicle it is overtaking pulls out to overtake as well. There have been a number of people, including expatriates, killed or injured on the local roads by vehicles on the dirt shoulder, so keep as far away from the road as you can. In the Philippines dead people are worth less than an injured person in compensation, so it’s not unusual for the vehicle to back up and run you over again to make sure you are dead. Beware crossing the road as many vehicles don’t have ANY lights, or only one light, so after a few beers what you think is a slow moving trike is actually a loony in a 4x4 doing 100 kph. Bicycles never have lights and belt down at the edge of the road much faster than you think. I’m amazed that more cyclists don’t get killed, but they do sometimes run into pedestrians. Wherever possible it’s safer to walk on the beach, even at night.

VAT in the Philippines was raised to 12% a couple of years ago, and has made a major difference to the inflation. A bill may contain a VAT item, but it’s usually included in the expected price and most resorts have absorbed it into their rates. This is not true for shops and supermarkets which add on the VAT to the shelf price. Always check if VAT is included.

The main resort area is on the beach. There are other accommodations and restaurants elsewhere, and these will be detailed later. Cabana (the host resort for the San Fernando Race) is virtually in the middle, but all distances are short. It’s fine to walk on the beach at any time, including the night, although the tide may have a little bearing. (Bali Hai posts the tide times for the month on the bar notice board).

All the resorts offer 24 hour check-in and most have 24 hour bar and restaurant. Any exceptions are noted in the individual write-up. Many have low and high season rates with a supplement (large) for Holy Week (Easter). Rooms are extremely difficult for Holy Week and need to be booked months in advance. Luckily Holy Week finishes on the Sunday, as Monday is a working day (Philippines has Maundy Thursday instead of Easter Monday), so rooms for Sunday night should not be a problem, although some resorts charge the extra for Sunday.

Overall there has been a deterioration in many of the resorts since the Americans left in the early 90’s. Maintenance tends to have been the minimum necessary as many resorts fight for survival. Resorts owned/managed by foreigners are the best maintained, those run by locals tend to be in a worse condition. The casino at Poro Point was supposed to improve the area, but the gamblers don’t tend to go anywhere else apart from the casino. There are also some good restaurants in San Fernando, as well as the usual fast food places like McDonalds, Pizza Hut, KFC and Jollibee. The Danish Baker on the main road is good but expensive.

Philippines' San Miguel (called SMB) is the standard drink, with two versions - Normal and Light. A few resorts also have draft at roughly the same price as a bottle. Be careful of the normal SMB, as it can be ‘off’. It makes no difference where you buy it, when it’s opened the smell is different, let alone the taste. If you think it is ‘off’ the bar or resort will change it. The light contains more alcohol, but less calories. The tissue that comes will all bottles of beer is not just for show. Many times there is rust from the cap on the neck of the bottle. Make sure you wipe it thoroughly before drinking. This applies to ALL bottles with caps, including soft drinks.

Knowing the passion for beer amongst sailors I’ve included the beer prices at the bars and resorts. All the prices below are current as at October 2008, but could well have increased a little by March 2009. Room rates are for an air-conditioned room for two persons. Fan rooms are available at a cheaper rate. An extra bed is available for a small surcharge. The range in rates for a resort usually covers rooms with and without cable TV, refrigerator, telephone, etc. Breakfast can often be included in the room rate for a small increase.

Unfortunately all the resorts seem to suffer from a consistency problem. Food that is great one day can be totally different a few days later, possible because the chefs do shift work and depending on the time you order the food, a different chef could prepare it. Steaks are popular at the resorts, but I have had great difficulty finding a good one. They are expensive compared to other food, and are often very chewy and tough. If you really want a steak wait until you get back to Hong Kong, or if you are really desperate hope you are lucky and get a good one.

The other problem with all the resorts and restaurants is salt. Soups, gravy, sauces and many dishes are loaded with salt and/or MSG. The western idea of letting the customer add their own salt has not been accepted in the Philippines yet, with the exception of a few hotels in Manila. Even asking for NO SALT when ordering often makes no difference as many of the dishes have already been prepared with it in.

Many of the resorts have live music late in the week and at weekends.
Resorts/Restaurants/Bars on the beach with beach walking times between them starting from the south:
Hideaway (bar) - 10; Nilinac - 1; Long Beach - 4; Blue Cat /Sonny’s Canteen (bars) - ½; Sunset Palms - ½; Green Light (bar) - 3; Villa Estrella - 4; - China Sea - 1; Coconut Grove - 1; Cabana - ½; Bali Hai - 3; Ocean Breeze - 3.

Resorts/Restaurants/Bars on the main road (Macarthur Hi-way).

VFW (bar), Bali Hai East and Arianna are opposite Cabana. Cheerleaders Inn is between Bali Hai and Moonset View and next to Cheerleaders Night Club. The Rose Bowl is opposite Moonset View Palms. CitiGate hotel is three minutes walk down the road from Moonset View. Oasis is eight minutes by trike towards San Fernando.

There are also Sari-sari stalls on the beach and the main road selling snacks, beer and cold drinks at cheaper prices than the resorts, but the definition of cold is sometimes loose. Vendors also ply the beach selling anything from swords, fish, balut (an egg with chicken embryo) and ice-cream – buyer beware.

There are a number of cheap restaurants on the main road by the resorts including two burger bars.

There are also a number of cheap bars/video/karaoke/massage bars on the main road, mainly frequented by locals (often trike drivers). Cheap beer and other services, but don’t upset the locals. The ‘Boatman’ is usually OK.

Others

Sunset Bay and Sea Park are on ‘White Sands’ beach, next to the airport.
Other Hotels close by and in San Fernando:
Blue Lagoon 72-8882531
La Mer 72-7004328
Hotel Mikka 72-7005336
Sea & Sky Hotel 72-2425579
Ramos & Delfina 72-7000589
Miramonte Beach Resort 72-7000470
Y Foods Inn 72-8882711
California Beach Resort 72-7001375
Jessica’s Beach Resort 72-7051284
Plaza Hotel 72-2425760
Schweinzer Garden Resort 72-7052300
Go Inn 72-607-6606


Details of Resorts, Restaurants & Bars (starting from the south) – All data as of 2009.

Hideaway – Bar.
Mainly for backpackers. Not sure if it’s still open.

Cresta Del Mar – Resort. Tel 72-7050804
Just back from the beach by Nilinac. No other info, as never been in there.

Nilinac – Resort. 72-7060902
Cottages for 3 OR 6 people overlooking the sea. 24 hours, but food only until 22.00, and drinks until 01.00.
Rates PHO1,680 for 3 to PHO3,800 for 6. SMB 40 (both).

Long Beach – Resort. Tel 72-6076609 longbeach_sflu@yahoo.com www.longbeachresorthotel.com
2 buildings of rooms, each 2 stories. Kept reasonable, apart from the beach area.
Rates 1,000P to 1,550P per room. SMB 50 (both).

Blue Cat – Bar & restaurant.
Pool table. Popular with German and Swiss expats. SMB 33, light 38.

Sonny’s Canteen - Bar & restaurant.
Immediately behind Seamens. Popular with German and Swiss expats. SMB 30, light 30.

Sunset Palms – Bar.
Popular with Australian backpackers. Was very popular in the 80’s. Pool table. Limited accommodation of 3 aircon rooms + fan rooms. Sadly in major need of renovation. Rates 550P to 650P. SMB 31, light 37.

Green Light - Bar (& restaurant).
Possibly the cheapest beer on the beach (but only just and excluding the sari-sari stalls) with a great view of sunsets over the sea. Reasonable food. SMB 30, light 35.

Villa Estrella – Resort. 72-705-0719/6695 Fax 72-6076693 villaestrellaresort@yahoo.com
Upmarket resort, usually frequented by well-to-do Filipinos . Used to be called The Anchorage in the 1970’s and hosted the earlier San Fernando races. Has a Night Club on the premises. Swimming pool. Food good, but not cheap.
Rates 2,000P to 2,250P per room. SMB 75 (both).

Whitebirds Paradise – Bar.
Bar on the main road. Gay male bar - dark. Warm beer and expensive prices. Avoid.

China Sea – Resort. Tel 72-7050833 Fax 72-2420822 chinaseabeachresort@yahoo.com www.chinaseabeachresort.com
Hosted the San Fernando race a couple of times in the 90’s. To my knowledge is the only resort that does not rent the land. Can rent a condo in the grounds either daily (3,650P) or long term. Swimming pool. Food OK.
Rates 1,525P to 1,850P. SMB 35. Light 40.

Coconut Grove – Resort. Tel 72-8884276/607-6604 Fax 72-8885381/607-6621 resort@coco.com.ph www.coco.com.ph
Has a pool table and a Bowling Green. Swimming pool. Popular with local expats. Food has improved recently and is now good.
Rates 1,320P to 1,870P. SMB 45. Light 50

VFW – Bar & restaurant.
Commander Frank. Odd hours – only open 08.00 until 19.00, so no good for dinner. You don’t have to be a member. Air-conditioned. Pool table & Wi-fi. Not much atmosphere, but great for an air-conditioned lunch and a cold beer. Daily food special. All day breakfast with toast and coffee for 135P is good value.
SMB 40 (both), but Happy Hour 13.00-15.00 is 30 and Crazy hour 15-00-16.00 only 20, but not every day.

Bali Hai East – Resort. Tel 72-6076611 Fax 72-7050876 balihaieast@balihai.com.ph
Manager Mike. Modest version of Bali Hai. Wi-fi and swimming pool. The TV’s in the bar are connected to 2 satellite dishes as well as cable, so are popular with expats for sport. Monthly food specials. Food good.
Rates 1,000P to 1,100P (Family room for 4 1,800P) SMB 45 (both).

Cabana – Resort. Tel 72-6076608 Fax 72-6076625 cabana@pltds1.net www.cabana.com.ph
Mangers Carol & Robbie. Host for the race. Popular with local expats from about 17.00 to 19.30. Swimming pool and cable TV in the bar. Unfortunately looking a little run down now. Food OK
Rates 1,620P to 2,230P SMB 40 (both).

Ariana – Hotel. Tel 72-7050050 hotelariana@gmail.com www.hotelariana.com.ph
New 4 star hotel. Wi-fi.
Rates 2,200P to 2,500P including breakfast for 2. SMB 60 (both).

Bali Hai – Resort. Tel 72-7050873 Fax 72-7050876 balihai@balihai.com.ph www.balihai.com.ph
Manager Bill. Popular with local expats. Possibly the best overall food on the beach, and the most consistent. Wi-fi and swimming pool. Live music Friday & Saturday. Cable TV in the bar. Many rooms facing the sea. Daily food specials, and theme nights – Mongolian Sat. Chicken Cordon Bleu and the Mongolian recommended. Overall food very good.
Rates 1,830P to 2,175P including breakfast. SMB 55, light 55.

Ocean Breeze – Resort. Tel 72-8883530 Fax 72-7053067 oceanbreezeresortau@yahoo.com.au
Manger Jeff. 24 hours, but food only until 23.00. Was a little run down a couple of years ago, but has now been improved. Food Specials Board – food OK. Chicken/Pork Cordon Bleu recommended. Butterfly Night Club on the premises.
Rates 675P to 1,000P. SMB 40 (both).

Footlights Night Club (Manager ‘Smokey’) Overall manager is Peter.

Cheerleaders Inn – Accommodation only.
On the main road between ocean Breeze and Southern Palms, next to Cheerleaders Night Club (same ownership).
Rates 545P to 815P (family room 1,105P). SMB (from mini-bar) 45 (both).

Moonset View – Resort. moonsetview@yahoo.com Tel (Mob) +63 9228756474/+63 9298230584
Swimming pool. Many rooms facing the sea. Food has deteriorated recently. Stilettos Night Club on the premises (closed).
Rates 1,300P to 2,850P. SMB 55, light 60.

Boatman – Bar.
On the main road opposite Southern Palms. Open until late. Used to be the cheapest beer around, but not anymore. Don’t upset the trike drivers. SMB 30, light 35

Rose Bowl
An upmarket steak house and restaurant on the main road opposite Moonset View.
Kubong Sawali Restaurant.
On the main road opposite Southern Palms. Serves good local food.

Patio Del Sol Restaurant.
Seafood restaurant on the beach round the bend. If going by road it’s the first left over the bridge past Southern Palms. Within walking distance. Beer may not be too cold.

Citigate – Hotel. Tel 72-8883418
8 room hotel. 800P to 1,200P (Family room for 4 2,000P), inc breakfast.

Oasis – Resort. Tel 72-2425621 Fax 72-2425631 www.oasiscountryresort.com
24 hours 53 room Hotel – was upmarket when it opened, but has deteriorated. Still good though. Frequented mainly by well-to-do Philippinos. Pool table and Wi-fi. Swimming pool.
Rates from 3,300P.

Sunset Bay – Resort. Tel 72-6075970 Fax 72-6075906 sunsetbayresort@yahoo.com www.sunsetbayphilippines.com
The resort was run down until Spider took over about 3 years ago. Now one of the best around, and about the only resort investing money for improvement by recently adding more rooms and a swimming pool (salt water!). Large chess board & Wi-fi. Closes at 23.00. Close to the airport and the casino, situated with the sea and white sand beach on one side and the airport the other side, but the airport entrance is the other side of the runway. Close to ‘The Junction’. Food only until 22.00, but very good food. Chef’s salad recommended.
Rates 1,300P SMB 40 (both).

Sea Park – Resort. Tel 72-8883411 Fax 72-8882369 sea_parkbeachresort@yahoo.com www.seaparkbeachresort.com
Further down the beach from Sunset Bay, but accessed by a different road. Very large beach front and cheapest soft drinks around at 15P. Bar and food until 22.00. Extensive menu and OK food. For some reason they have not had any beer wraps for the past 3 years, so take your own.
Rates 1,750P to 3,100P for 3-4 people (corporate suite for 8 5,600P) SMB 35 (both).

Night Clubs (Girly Bars)

There are three air-conditioned Night Clubs within walking distance – Cheerleaders, Footlights, and Butterfly Bar. All close at midnight, although they have been known to stay open later, however watch the time because they all try to get you to buy a last beer just before they finish, then 2 mouthfuls later the lights go on, the music stops and the girls vanish and you’re left with an almost full SMB. Other similar bars can be found at ‘The Junction’ towards Poro Point, but are of lower standard and most are not air-conditioned. They also have a reputation for ripping you off – the girls just get their own drink and charge you for it. Getting back from ‘The Junction’ the trike drivers charge 3-4 times the normal price, but there is no other way to get back.

The first three of the above local clubs run a Happy Hour from 16.00-18.00 when the SMB’s are 55P. At other times it’s 70P. The Butterfly Club does not have a HH, but the beer is 60P all the time.
Drinks for the Ladies at these clubs start at 110P.