A sailing destination to pine for - Tortola, British Virgin Islands

by Anne Kazel-Wilcox, Chicago Tribune/Sail-World on 20 Dec 2009 Looking for a last minute New Year sailing holiday? You couldn't do better than Tortola in the British Virgin Islands - or BVI as it is called by those who have long loved its perfect sailing, secluded anchorages and excellent diving.

Tortola, which means 'land of turtle doves' in Spanish, is just northeast of the U.S. Virgin Islands, which with the British Virgin Islands forms the Virgin Islands archipelago. The lands were settled by pre-Columbian Indians in 600 B.C. After Columbus stumbled upon them, they were later occupied by the Dutch, followed by the British. The area became a British self-governing territory in 1967.

It has been long known as a Mecca for yachting holidays and vacations of all types. These famous islands, including Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada, provide all of the ingredients – consistent winds (usually 15-20 knots in Winter, 25 – 30 during the “Christmas Winds”), unspoiled islands, deserted sandy beaches, shipwrecks, excellent snorkeling and diving - not to mention the beach bars, restaurants and night life, and a pace and charm that perfectly fits yachting.

In fact, nearly the entire economy is devoted to yachting, and sailors meet people from all over the world of like mind and spirit - and why?

It's those constant trade winds that fill your mainsail so reliably. The Sir Francis Drake Channel stretches out in front of you. Whether you’re a first-time sailor or an experienced skipper, your first mates will be the endless ocean and an inviting blue sky. From the main capital island of Tortola, sailors have incredible variety in a cruising area that is about 32 miles long and 15 miles wide.

Tortola serves as the northern backbone to Sir Francis Drake Channel, a swath of water that cuts through the middle of the long British Virgin Islands chain. With the islands on each side buffering the channel for easy passage, it is natural that the area has become a sailing haven.

As to destinations, you won't want to miss the natural wonders of The Baths on Virgin Gorda, where huge granite boulders form caverns and grottoes along the beach's edge. The Bight, a bay at Norman Island, is also a popular anchorage, once a hideout for swashbuckling pirates and now home to Willy T, a floating bar/restaurant. Nearby are caves through which visitors can snorkel or - dive.

Long known for some of the prettiest reefs and the most famous shipwreck in the Caribbean, there are many prized mooring spots that are great for diving. One of the best sites is the wreck of the Royal Mail Ship Rhone, which sank in a fierce hurricane off Salt Island in 1867. At the time, it was a custom to strap in passengers to keep them from falling from their bunks, resulting in everyone perishing except one lucky Italian and some crew members.

The ship's remains make an amazing view, scattered over an area the size of a football field with the colorfully encrusted bow, crow's nest and even the Italian's 'lucky' porthole all teeming with fish. Blue Water Divers guide tours of the wreck site.

Another favorite dive site is Santa Monica rock near Norman Island, with ledges and pinnacles playing home to eels, octopus, enormous crabs and graceful eagle rays. Near that is Angelfish Reef, where you may spot an elusive seahorse and just about every other Caribbean underwater creature imaginable.

When you are ready to enjoy some of Tortola's land attractions, you can explore a lush volcanic island characterized by steep,

hilly roads with enough twists and turns to make a person dizzy. And with nearly every turn, yet another exquisite white, crescent-shaped beach is unveiled.Try hiking atop Sage Mountain, a national park featuring the highest peak on the island (1,716 feet) with great vistas and bird watching; visiting the Callwood Rum Distillery in Cane Garden Bay, where rum is produced much as it was 200 years earlier.

The north shore offers some of the island's liveliest restaurants and night life. Bomba Shack by Sebastian's is famous for full-moon parties that draw hundreds to the quirky seaside bar, where donated patron panties hang from the ceiling. Close by is Cane Garden Bay, home of a gorgeous beach and popular beachside restaurant/bars such as Myett's and Quito's. Or many visitors make the short trek to Jolly Roger on the west end of Tortola, which is always hopping.

There are plenty of charter boats on offer, everything from skippered catamarans to exciting and challenging bare-boat mono-hulls, and lots of competition among the charter operators.

Tortola must be one of the best first choices to introduce you to sailing in the Caribbean, and it's easy to reach by air from Puerto Rico. It's also easy to book with so many charter options, including the best known names of Sunsail and The Moorings.