The Complete Sailors' Guide to San Fernando

by San Fernando Gweilo Mayor on 6 Mar 2009 Resorts, Restaurants, Bars and Entertainment in San Fernando, La Union, Philippines

Back in the 1980’s a local beach resident (ex-Hong Kong) wrote an article about all the resorts for the San Fernando Race. Nobody has written anything since. These notes are a tribute to Brian Lewis who passed away in September 2008.

The Beach Area
The actual beach area is Paringao almost mid-way between Bauang and San Fernando. Virtually all the land on the beach side of the road is owned by the Trillamar Inc, and rented to the resorts (except for China Sea). Old man Trillo (96 in 2008) was a very astute businessman from the earlier days of the American R&R era, but has not been active in the last 3 years. San Fernando is a major town and has many shops, supermarkets, wet and dry markets and the usual fast food places. Bauang is much smaller, but does have a market and shops.

Getting to and from San Fernando
Many sailors will only sail one way, so those arriving need to fly back and replacement crew, wives, girlfriends, etc need to arrive. The only sensible ways are to fly either to Manila or Clark from Hong Kong, and Cebu Pacific now flies direct to Clark (Angeles) from Hong Kong. Unfortunately both airports suffer from a monopoly on the taxis, so it’s expensive to leave the airport. The cheapest way to get to San Fernando is to catch an aircon bus going north to Loaog, Vigan, Abra or San Fernando – about 300-400P. The buses to Baguio do not go to San Fernando. Note: if you start in Manila, there are two San Fernando’s in the same direction; one near Angeles and the other in La Union.
If travelling via Clark get a taxi to Dau (dah-ooh) bus terminal (430P) about 5K away – all the buses going north stop there, so one every 15 to 20 minutes. It will take about 5 hours to La Union. Angeles, Dau and Clark are all together, just different areas.

Manila buses
From Manila it is more difficult as you have to select a specific bus terminal. All the bus companies have at least one terminal in Manila. Partas in Pasay is probably the closest, but Partas in Cubao has more frequent buses to La Union. Other bus lines going to San Fernando and the North are Dominion, Viron, Genesis, Farinas, Maria De Leon and Philippine Rabbit. Genesis stops less often than the other ones. Victory Liner have the closest terminal in Pasay, but go to Baguio, however you can take this and change at Dau. Will take 7-8 hours. If returning via Manila get an aircon bus to Pasay, not Cubao as it’s much closer to the airport; then catch a metered taxi. It’s worthwhile to wait an extra few minutes by the roadside to catch a Pasay bus as it will save about an hour in Manila.

OR
There is a private bus/van service between Angeles and San Fernando, but it leaves at 08.30 in the morning either way for 900P. From Angeles Monday, Wednesday & Friday. From San Fernando Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday. Pick up from any hotel/resort, but book.

Resorts can organise a bus/van pick up from either airport for up to 8 people. Manila 7,000-7,500P, Angeles 5,000-5,800P.

Hire a car and drive, but only any use if not going either way by boat. Rates start at only 900P per day from Clark with www.viprentacar.com.ph and they will collect you from the airport, however you have to return the car to Clark.
San Fernando airport is now open with flights from Manila. Schedule not decided yet. All the resorts will pick you up from the airport.

Some people like to stay over in Angeles for a couple of nights either on the way there or the way back (lotsa bars). All the Manila air-con buses going north (or South on the way back) stop at Dau bus terminal, or there are 2 private bus companies that cater mainly for expats: -
‘Southern Cross Shuttle’ departs Southern Cross Hotel, Ermita, Manila at 15.30 and departs Brass Knob, Angeles at 13.00 daily.
‘Fly the Bus’ departs Swagman Hotel, Ermita at 11.30, 15.30, 20.30 and Swagman Hotel Angeles 08.00, 12.00, 15.00 daily.
(If you stay at the Swagman, Manila, they will pick you up or drop you off at Manila airport for free).

Returning is much easier – just go stand on the main road outside your San Fernando resort and flag down an aircon bus going south (but not to Baguio). There is one approximately every 15 minutes and about 7 different bus lines to choose from. A few have terminals in San Fernando, but then you limit your choice to that bus line. All stop at Dau bus terminal. For Manila get a bus to Pasay, not Cubao as it is closer to the airport. Departure tax for Manila is 750P and Clark is 600P, not included in the ticket price.

What You Need to Know When You Are There
Transportation on the main road is either Jeepney or Trike. Jeepneys are fixed fare (10P to Bauang, 12P to San Fernando in 2008, but seems to increase by 1 or 2P every few months now). Trikes need to be negotiated BEFORE getting in. Aircon buses run approximately every 15 minutes in each direction between Vigan/Laoag and Manila – just stand on the side of the road and stop one. Traffic is bad, especially in Manila - allow at least 8 or 9 hours before you should be at the airport (more at some times of the year). An accident can block the road for 2 or 3 hours as well.

Walking between the resorts is dangerous on the main road, especially at night. The main road consists of a single road with a lane in either direction and a dirt shoulder each side, so overtaking vehicles use the opposite side of the road. Many vehicles overtake even when traffic is coming the other direction if it is smaller than the overtaking vehicle. This forces the smaller vehicle onto the dirt shoulder, where you could be walking. Likewise an overtaking vehicle maybe forced onto the opposite dirt shoulder if the vehicle it is overtaking pulls out to overtake as well. There have been a number of people, including expatriates, killed or injured on the dirt shoulder by vehicles, so keep as far away from the road as you can. In the Philippines dead people are worth less than an injured person in compensation, so it’s not unusual for the vehicle to back up and run you over again to make sure you are dead. Beware crossing the road as many vehicles don’t have ANY lights, or only one light, so after a few beers what you think is a slow moving trike is actually a loony in a dilapidated car doing 70MPH. Bicycles NEVER have lights and belt down at the edge of the road much faster than you think. I’m amazed that more cyclists don’t get killed, but they do sometimes run into pedestrians. Wherever possible it’s safer to walk on the beach, even at night, but sometimes the tide makes this difficult.

VAT in the Philippines was raised to 12% a couple of years ago, and has made a major difference to the inflation. A bill may contain a VAT item, but it’s usually included in the expected price and most resorts have absorbed it into their rates. This is not true for shops and supermarkets which add on the VAT to the shelf price. Always check whether VAT is included.

The main resort area is on the beach. There are other places of accommodation and restaurants elsewhere, and these will be detailed later. Cabaña (hosts for the San Fernando Race) is virtually in the middle, but all distances are short. It’s fine to walk on the beach at any time, including at night, although the tide may have a little bearing. (Bali Hai posts the tide times for the month on the bar notice board).

All the resorts offer 24 hour check-in and most have a 24 hour bar and restaurant. Any exceptions are noted in the individual write-ups. Many have low and high season rates with a supplement (large) for Holy Week (Easter). Rooms are extremely difficult for Holy Week and need to be booked months in advance. Luckily Holy Week finishes on the Sunday, as Monday is a working day (Philippines has Maundy Thursday instead of Easter Monday), so rooms for Sunday nig