Letter from the Indies- Grenada, Caribbean Islands

by Ian and Andrea Treleaven on 12 Nov 2008
Ian and Andrea Treleaven, who have been entertaining Sail-World readers for years now with their tales of sailing in the Mediterranean and the Caribbean, begin writing again from the start of their latest cruise aboard Cape Finisterre

On the sea again and the islands are lush green from a hot, humid and wet summer that is now ending. Hurricanes in the north this year kept us viewing web weather sites but thankfully none came through the southern islands where we had ‘Cape Finisterre’ high and dry in Prickly Bay, Grenada.

Since leaving Sydney three months ago we have been traveling by car around France taking in the wine areas. We loved it all but would swap the highways for the seaways any day.

Highlights were the Champagne and Burgundy areas where we learnt such a lot, but when it came to one of our last dinners and I made the comment 'I think I am over wine' the reply from Ian was 'No! Never!' Grape picking in the Charente and making the wine was also fantastic. All sounds a bit decadent considering the financial state of the world, but the best thing for us is no papers and no TV; life goes on.

There’s always a toilet story. Always avoiding those squat ones, Ian got caught out in an emergency in Italy; before his bum was down he had missed the target. Not a good look and spent some considerable time cupping water and throwing it up the wall.

Talking of naughty bits we also saw the 'Picasso and the Masters' exhibition in Paris and we never knew the extent of his paintings. On arriving before opening time the queue is already a two hour wait. Ian has another one of those genuine urgent moments and jumps the queue to use the toilet. Once inside, he purchases tickets, gets me from the long line and bingo we are in. Seeing so many his great paintings exhibited beside those of Cezanne, Van Gogh, Goya and many others, shows vividly the source of his inspiration. It is not to be missed if you are in Paris.

Now back to Grenada, the Spice Island. Nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cocoa, vanilla, and ginger are all grown on this island that’s 18 km wide and 34 km long. The population of 70,000 is mostly African with some Europeans making a second home here. Despite the political upheavals of the past, we found it to be a relaxed tropical island set in an environmentally friendly country. It was wonderful to see a road sign carved with ‘Thank you America for saving us’. The most impressive building would have to be the cricket stadium thanks to the Chinese needing a vote for their Beijing Olympic bid.

Cape Finisterre was clean and back in the water very quickly, mostly so we could get the air-conditioner working. With humidity very high, temperatures in the 30s day and night, it’s hot and the trade winds have not arrived yet. It’s not exactly working conditions either so Ian has the antifouling and boat polished by the local workers. Spice Island Marine has been very professional and we would recommend them to anyone leaving a yacht here.

Anchored in Prickly Bay, we are surrounded in this blue water cove by beautiful modern homes and fabulous gardens full of bougainvillea and anything tropical. Ian spends a few days getting sails up and fixing a few minor areas of corrosion. Janey, our daughter, arrives to join us for 3 weeks on our travels north, 350nm, to Antigua.

A drive around the island reveals shanty houses mixed with luxury and a few resorts dot the island. High on a peninsular overlooking more peninsulas and coves, we are invited by Billy, Patricia and Ian McKinney for dinner. From this gorgeous house we watch the vivid sun set turn bright red and then total darkness. Very tempting to stay forever but the sunsets will continue to enthrall us on our way north.

One last thing before we leave Grenada is to see the sculptures under the sea. They are not exactly easy to find as we snorkel from bay to bay and then at last a very haunting sight when we do. Sculptures of skeletons, bodies, heads and a circle of children dot the ocean floor.

Our first day sailing north is flat seas and a breeze from the north east. Water temperature is 29 degrees and not all that refreshing but it’s great to be back at sea. Our destination is Union Island of the Grenadines; our favourite cruising area in the Windward Islands. On the way we anchor off Morpion Islet, a white sandbank with a diameter of 30 metres, a single thatched palm umbrella and surrounded by heavenly clear turquoise water. There are too many choices in this area of white sand beaches and small islands. In my dreams I will return as a guest to the stunning Palm Island Resort.

The only thing to do in this heat is swim and Tobago Cays, one of the most beautiful natural wonders of the world, is the place to swim with the turtles. Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau Island is divine and to top it off we dine on fresh lobster cooked superbly by Ian on the BBQ. Two of our last three meals have been lobster. Why not when it’s cheaper than steak!? When it comes to negotiating the price Ian informs them it’s a recession but the blank expression can only mean 'What’s that?'

Our plan this season is to sail the areas we have already covered relatively quickly to Antigua and from then on slowly through to the St Martin group, British and US Virgins, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Turks and Caicos Islands, north coast of Cuba and then a large number of the islands in the Bahamas. We will then leave the yacht for the hurricane season at end of May 2009 on the US coast north of Carolina.

Looking for a cooler change!

Cheers

Andrea & Ian