Van Diemen's Land Circumnavigation Cruise - Episode 2
by Brian Golland on 4 Jul 2011
Mersey Yacht Club SW
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The bi-annual 'Van Diemen's Land Circumnavigation Cruise' of Tasmania, arguably the most southerly rally in the world, has been a regular summer event since 1990. When the rally took place this year at the height of summer, Brian Golland was there on the yacht Tradition, and here is the second episode of his account, presented on Sail-World as a multiple-part series (http://www.sail-world.com/index_d.cfm?nid=84359!Click_here to read Episode 1).
The story is a detailed and intimate account of really what it's like to be travelling in company with a flotilla of other boats - the enjoyed meals together, the land excursions, the sea life, the 'scheds', the maintenance tasks and provisioning along with the adventure of glorious scenery and sailing into uncertainty every day:
On Monday there are many early moves and the cruise shifts to the next leg with light rain falling and a number of large vessels moving in the port waters making for some interest.
All moves are outbound and heading for the Mersey, Stanley or Hummocks as destinations. The weather is due to close in and gale force winds make moving important early.
Off Egg Island Tradition comes on a school of dolphins and they stay around for some fifteen minutes…huge photo opportunities!
By 1.30 pm Tradition is inside the Mersey Yacht Club marina and snug for the next few days…a quick visit to town via the passenger ferry and a lap back to the yacht then off to the club house for a drink before going to a nice Chinese restaurant to end an adventurous day.
Tuesday 1st March and all is well in Devonport except for the cold and blustery south wind….not much happening but the crew end up with the boys in the Mersey YC for their weekly Tuesday meal and hear many stories from Colin and Gary who spin them out rapidly re old days at King Island with fires, melted cheese down the hill, rhubarb poisoning …..funny!! Everyone ends the night on a high note.
With all yachts scattered around northern waters of Tasmania most crews occupy their Wednesday time on chores and stores supply ready for the next leg of the trip….not much to report.
By Thursday all are gearing up with the possibility of a move soon…putting the final touches to provisioning and crew member Julie leaves for Melbourne. The local butcher attends to supply needs with his own local meat supply and fresh as…everyone meets at the club house again as they put on a BBQ for everyone and a social occasion is soon under way with many stories and discussion on what is ahead. Late night though!!
And on Friday 4th March Tradition prepares for Saturday’s early departure …. To Stanley which sees the cruise more than half way through the journey.
As expected Tradition travels well all the way to Stanley even though with some motor sailing. The breeze is ENE and off the stern quarter most of the way. Arrival in Stanley late afternoon and after a cleanup the crew venture into town and meet other yachties for a 'quiet one' before heading back to join in the evening 'sched' which gives info re all the other participants and their positions.
At this point and in summary the vessel has been on the journey for 18 days and covered around 410 Nm in a journey of over 800 odd Nm.
Sitting in Stanley in the North West of the state the crew are settled in for a rest before venturing on around the top of 'Tassie'. (Tasmania)
Sunday morning (6 March) does not bring any joy and forecasts are not Tradition’s way …looking at 30 knots of breeze off Stanley harbour which keeps Tradition here but the crew venture into town for a tourist walk and coffee etc…. a roast lamb dinner combined with dessert of 'Apricot al la Nut' puts cruising into the right perspective! And a glass of red!
On Monday morning the decision that things have improved allows Tradition to take off in fairly rough conditions knowing that things will be better once we turn down with a ENE breeze behind them…
Only 1.5 knots of speed out of Stanley is not what the doctor ordered but within 2 hours Tradition is tracking along at 7 knots and making good numbers to drop under the Hunter Group of islands down through the Bird Passage by mid afternoon.
By 1930 it is curried beef and salad for dinner washed down with scotch finger biscuits…..passing Cape Grim and then Sandy Cape by 2245 and midnight off Lagoon Bay!
After midnight, and a new day (Tuesday), with an increase in speed plus a double reef with reduced furler to slow down . . . although still making over 8 knots!
A lull in breeze during the night causes some little motoring before again in settling on sailing well down the west coast. The north easterly is assisting Tradition reaches 'Hell’s Gate' and the entrance to Strahan just around dawn and at 0745 passing through the entrance before getting into Strahan Harbour around 10am. The log shows 563 Nm complete and an overnight passage of 153 Nm!! Lastly, a little rest on anchor in Strahan Harbour, relaxing to balance the day.
It is now Wednesday (8 March) and the crew get ashore for a lovely breakfast at Banjo’s restaurant across from the wharf. Before 1300 there are preparations to sail to Kelly’s Landing for a late arrival at 1700, going ashore with the dinghy to two different old landings which provide access to the old mining works and ruins etc of East and West Partridge. Excellent photo opportunities here.
Dinner by Master Chef Murray consists of Greek Souvlaki wraps … excellent …, then everyone hits the sack after working on plans for a Gordon River expedition tomorrow!
By 0730 Thursday Tradition is sailing toward the entrance to the Gordon River. Sailing a little too close to one of the piles we sit aground for a few minutes in mud…temporary setback…and then wind up to Warner’s Landing to tie up and venture over to the St John’s Falls on the opposite bank, viewing the falls and Parks hut with 'modest accommodation for a overnight stay.' (No thanks!)
On returning the crew visit the Hydro Pipe which gushes fresh water in a nook in the river. Other yachts raft up to Tradition late afternoon and some visiting and conversation of other adventurers. A light dinner of chicken wings and salad with a quiet glass soon sees everyone soundly sleeping!
Well Friday provides an opportunity to take the dinghy and trek up the Gordon and Franklin Rivers for some exploring and photos. Going up a few miles to strike the river fork and enjoy a quick trip into the Franklin stopping at a shallow gravel area and then back and up the Gordon for a few miles taking in the sights and shadows etc. The river flows heavy with tannin colour and is very dark!
To be continued...
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