Blackwattle at the Heiva Festival in Papeete

by Nancy Knudsen on 21 Jul 2007 Sailing into Papeete just at the time of Heiva Nui, the annual festival celebrating Polynesian local sports, culture and crafts was an inspired, if accidental, choice of date.

This marvelously and unashamedly traditional festival is not only lively, full of energy and lots of fun, it also shows the ever swelling pride of the Tahitians in their ancient and unique culture, and it is a delight for us to share the excitement.

We bask in it all – the traditional dances and the modern, canoe races, javelin throwing, stone lifting, coconut tree climbing, bicycle racing, and then there are the crafts - the jewellery, wood carving, basket weaving, painting on coconut tree bark. The best artisans dancers and sports people are collected from the whole Polynesian archipelago, brought together to pit their skills against the rest of the best.

The only problem is – if you don't speak French, it's durned hard to find out where and when.

We attend the traditional games – the Tu'aro ma'ohi, where, owing to a revival in interest in the traditional sports, thousands turn up to watch Stone Throwing, Carrying the Fruit Pole Races, Javelin throwing, Coconut Tree Shinning and Coconut Opening Speed Competitions.

Let the images tell their own story:


More than an hour before start time, hundreds have already arrived to get the best seats.

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The young bloods line up, ready for the fruit carrying contest – large bundles of fruit are tied to each end of a heavy log, which the competitors have to shoulder throughout the race.

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The front runners keep up the pace.

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Women competitors line up to see who can lift the heaviest stone.

Javelin throwers with a difference. Each warrior has about 20 spears, and the goal is to hit a tiny coconut atop a forty foot pole – it's then a free-for-all but an awesome challenge.

Now it's time for the women's coconut cracking contest – three women to a team, one chopping and two gutting the coconut. The pace is frantic, the competition fierce, but the sportsmanship exemplary after it's over.

Big hugs for all

He's chopping the stone in half with his bare hand.

Now it's time for the young single men compete in a race to open a coconut using only a stake in the ground.

Traditional dancing is graceful from the women, very noisy and warlike from the men.

More coconut opening, this time it's the men's turn.

Finally it's a race to see who can shin up a coconut tree in the fastest time

The event starts at 4.00pm, and as night draws into evening there is not a bored face anywhere, and the barracking is noisy and active. Four hours passes like a flash – what a unique experience for us as visitors – there are hardly any other 'tourists' in the audience, and we feel privileged to have been present.

Next is the final dance evening by the Heiva Festival Winners in a few days – we can hardly wait, so watch this space!