OCC Roving Rear Commodore report from French Polynesia - Marquises
by RoRCs Andy and Sue Warman 18 Jun 2021 20:46 PDT
Hakahetau - Ua Pou Marquises © Sue & Andy Warman s/y Spruce
Clear indications of "Restraint Fatigue" are emerging in the cruising community throughout French Polynesia.
Crews have not suffered restrictions as have people in European and American countries, but they are now clearly itching to move onwards. Six months of cyclone season in the South Pacific helped inhibit desires to move westwards. Many have now extensively cruised within French Polynesia.
Fiji is partially open. Some folks have expressed a clear intention to go to Fiji. However, while NZ and Australia remain closed that may result in westbound cruisers being stuck in Fiji come the next cyclone season in November. Some may have permission to go to NZ for refit work, although many berths in NZ remain occupied due to vessels that arrived in November 2019, ahead of the cyclone season that preceded Covid. There is no clear Pacific destination where yachts presently in NZ can travel at the moment.
French Polynesia also already contains many yachts. A potential exodus is poised to surge westwards should restrictions ease. Consequentially, some crews wanting to avoid crowded cruising are now wondering whether to remain in French Polynesia until 2022 and go after the "bulge" departs. Others have limited funds or no time remaining to continue cruising the world. We hear tales of: "Got to get back to UK for the kids schooling."; "Need to get back to work."; "Will have to sell the boat and fly home." Some cruisers from the USA or Canada, with no long term visa, are being faced with the choice of leaving the boat and flying home or sailing back via Hawaii; two boats departed this week.
Others are waiting in North American Countries, desperate to commence their delayed adventure. Notions that some divine switch will be flicked imminently and all will revert to pre-pandemic freedom are optimistic. For those intending to set out, a good question to ask is "Do we have a viable exit plan to leave French Polynesia if we are not allowed to stay longer than 90-days?"
The increased volume of yachts already located in French Polynesia causes mention of concerns by local people. The level of anxiety bubbling below the surface varies by anchorage: the numbers of yachts present; how long boats stay in one place; how used locals are to visitors in those locations; what effects are perceived. One hears remarks of not using holding tanks, anchor damage to coral, taking fruit from residents' trees, limited local economic benefit and, during a drought, the use of scarce shore water supplies instead of on board watermakers. All things for members to consider when leaving a "clean wake and respecting hosts" as we travel.
Overall, we have found the resident population in French Polynesia incredibly welcoming and tolerant of the enlarged cruising community during the past year. What might be the case if another 200 craft should arrive with the coming crossing season, and those here cannot move west, is anyone's guess.
Steps to achieve global herd immunity against Covid are widely reported. Here in French Polynesia, a slow start to vaccination picked up speed but has started to stall due to supply and distribution challenges. In some areas yacht crews have received vaccine (primarily Tahiti & Moorea), in other islands, the local population have yet to start vaccination. We are sure all will be vaccinated, eventually. The latest news indicates single-digit numbers of new imported variants have been detected. This in spite of an almost complete international travel ban since 3rd February. The total number of Covid cases are now very low.
The importance of the tourist industry to the economy is significant and badly depressed by pandemic control measures. It seems that some forms of international travel may re-open from 1st May (whether that might include new yacht arrivals remains unclear). At a time when many countries are announcing struggles with 3rd or 4th waves of infection, this may result in infection rates increasing again.
Predicting future developments: virus variants, vaccination roll-out, effectiveness, steps taken for further controls and the effects on travel restrictions pertaining to the small ocean cruising community remains a near-impossible undertaking. The medium-term outlook is certainly more positive, but how precise timings will relate to imminent 2021 cruising season key dates is unclear. Meanwhile, we wait, and monitor, whether our hope to sail to Chile later this year will be possible...or will we still be enjoying the delights of French Polynesia into 2022?
This article has been provided by the courtesy of Ocean Cruising Club.