29th Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta launches tomorrow
by Guy Nowell, Sail-World Asia 17 Nov 2018 04:27 AEDT
17-24 November 2018
Ringing the bell to launch the 29th Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta © Guy Nowell / RMSIR
In November 2003 I turned up for the first time at the Royal Selangor Yacht Club, all ready to shoot the Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta. It was the one and only year of the Omega Asian Yachting Circuit (Raja Muda, King's Cup, Straits Regatta, China Sea Race). I had taken the precaution of writing down the address of the RSYC, but in spite of assurances of understanding from the taxi dispatcher at the airport, it soon became apparent that the driver hadn't a clue where he was meant to be taking me. It was a long ride via a number of residential districts – I know not where – that eventually led to Jalan Shahbandar and the waterfront of the perennially coffee-coloured Klang River.
This was the start of a love affair with Asia's most characterful, colourful, and charismatic regatta. By turns exciting, frustrating, and exhausting, the Raja Muda involves three coastal passage races totalling some 200nm, three days of inshore cans racing, a rickshaw race, four slap-up parties, and a journey from the ripping currents of Port Klang to the tranquil and beautiful waters of Langkawi. It's an event that was started in 1989 as a feeder race for boats going north up the Malacca Strait towards the fledgeling Phuket King's Cup, to which the then Raja Muda (and now Sultan of Selangor) lent his title. "We thought it would last five or so years," he said on the occasion of its 25th edition. Tomorrow the 29th running of the Raja Muda begins once again in the shadow of the red and white chimneys of the Kapar power station.
From Klang to Pangkor is pretty much a straight line, but beware the thunder cells that roll off the west coast of Malaysian. Being on the right side of 'the change' makes custard out of mustard, and turns heroes into zeroes.
A short break at bucolic Pangkor allows the fleet to catch up with itself, have breakfast with the hornbills at the Seaview Resort behind the beach at Pasir Bogok, and find an excuse for a party.
Pangkor to Penang is all about avoiding the nets of the local fishermen, and the tactics of rounding the end of the notorious Kra Bank that guards the finish line. How far can you go? Inshore? How accurate is your depth sounder? How steely is your nerve as you tack in towards the bank, and then tack out again when it gets too shallow?
In Penang there's going to be a rickshaw race, crew-on-crew – sorry, this is for glory only and doesn't count for the overall race card. Then a day of racing off the north shore of the island, and a dinner in one of the most jaw-dropping party venues we have ever seen – the Khoo Kong Si.
Another passage race to the astonishing archipelago of Langkawi usually delivers the strongest breeze of the entire regatta, and after last year's near-terminal soaking on the media RIB I have brought a lot more waterproofing gear for cameras, computers etc. Why did it take me 16 years to learn? (Don't go there).
Langkawi's Bass Harbour in the middle of a UNESCO Geopark is a race track out of fantasy land. The Racing classes enjoy the scenery at a remove; the Cruising classes get in amongst it, sailing round the improbable karst island outcrops and between archetypal tropical islands dripping with fecund greenery that defy description. And when you thought it was all over, you get to retire to the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club for one last blast of a party that puts a very final and very appropriate full stop to nine days of absolutely full on sailing.
If you haven't done the Raja Muda, you haven't sailed and raced in Asia. There are bigger regattas, and there may be more prestigious events, but for sheer gung-ho competitive sailing there's nothing like it. It's a marathon, not a series of sprints, and the competitors keep coming back again and again. Winners want to do it again, and the Honours Board at the RSYC features the very best sailors in Asia and from much further afield. They say, "It's the hardest event to win in Asia."
This evening, the 2018 Raja Muda launched in customary style at the Royal Selangor Yacht Club. This year's fleet involves an ORMA 60 trimaran as well as a classic ketch launched in 1895 – proof positive, if any were needed, that there's something here for everyone. If you're not here (to borrow a tag line from the Aussie Tourism Board), "where the bloody hell are you?"
First warning signal is 1255h tomorrow. After that, it's "Four Destinations, Nine Days: Full On!" See you at the start line.
Full details of timings and entries (and after tomorrow, results) can be found at www.rmsir.com
Follow the racing on Yellow Brick. Download the free app and select Add Races > Raja Muda 2018.