Letter from the Indies- Puerto Rico
by Andrea and Ian Treleaven on 1 Mar 2009
The navigator.JPG Ian & Andrea Treleaven
Andrea and Ian Treleaven continue their tales of sailing in the West Indies on their yacht Cape Finisterre:
We are now on our way crossing the Mona Passage, an 80nm strait between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. Renowned for its strong currents it is a very unpredictable stretch of water.
During Spanish occupation the strait was a main passage for the Spanish Galleons sailing back to Spain full of bullion, but I guess we won’t be seeing any. Our destination is Luperon, 110nms west along the north coast of The Dominican Republic. With a
total sailing distance of 250nms (two nights and one day at sea), this is our first overnight passage since crossing the Atlantic in 2007. It just shows what a pleasure it has been sailing between all the islands of the Lesser Antilles in the Caribbean.
We are now in the Greater Antilles of the Caribbean which includes all the large islands; Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Cuba and Jamaica. Our predicted weather is very light and not a lot of wave height. We won’t set any records but looking forward to a very pleasant
down-hill sail.
Arriving from cold Europe, Geordie and Patricia join us and after a welcome swim off the island of Palominos we sail south back to the Spanish Virgin Island of Vieques.
Mosquito Bay and its bioluminescence is the reason we are revisiting. We are picked up from Esperanza by a minivan towing 20 canoes just as the sun is setting. Looking nothing much during the day, this enclosed bay at night becomes one of the wonders of the world. Wearing only bathers in the pitch black night, we paddle out in our canoes to the middle of the bay trying not
to lose contact with our group.
Once on the water we see instantly the fish below dart about with luminescent lights trailing after them. The paddle and canoe also light up till we reach the middle of the bay and swim. Stirring up the sea is amazing and watching the sparkling diamonds roll off our skin is fascinating.
So what is bioluminescence? Millions of one cell creatures called dinoflagellates light up when they are disturbed to warn away predators. They are very fragile and thrive in tropical mangrove protected bays. Canoes are used to
stop pollution from outboard motors which is killing the organisms.
I remember in New Zealand sailing north on a dark night passing a reef when two dolphins charged towards the yacht with the sparkling luminescence around their body; it scared the hell out of me. And yes it’s the same as you sometimes see when you flush the toilet or head on a boat.
We enjoy a very nice dinner at el Quenepo in Esperanza but then as Ian gets the dinghy, once again a local lifts his rock held hand. Ian gives him a filthy stare and he abandons his intentions.
Our sail half way along the southern coast of Puerto Rico, 55nm, is in glorious blue sea with foaming white waves building behind us. An exhilarating ride in 25 knot easterly takes us to Bahia de Jobos, a hurricane hole behind a coral reef and many mangrove covered cays. Entering is not for the faint hearted as we surf in between the reefs, but once inside it is flat calm while you can still hear the roar of the waves crashing on the coral.
Adventuring out the next morning (thank goodness for GPS) this coast is a maze of coral cays, some above the water and some just below. Coffin Island (Isla de
Muertos), once a pirate haven, is a beautiful typical Caribbean island.
The strong winds make it uncomfortable, so after a lobster lunch we sail on to Ponce, the main port on this coast and the second largest city on Puerto Rico. Ponce was first settled in the 1500’s and is named after the Spanish Governor of the time Ponce de Leon.
We spend a day in downtown Ponce to see the beautiful facades and classical Spanish architecture, all of which have been well preserved. In the Plaza Las Delicias are grand fountains overshadowed by Ficus trees and the silver
domed Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Outside the town it’s all fast highways and fast food, very American. They can’t fix the internet service but they can build another hamburger outlet.
Places ashore have been disappointing but the scenery and sailing have been superb. We're not so sure for those sailing in the other direction, most are holed up in the mangroves waiting for the winds to abate.
Geordie and Patricia depart and we take advantage of the huge supermarkets to restock for our voyage ahead especially as supplies are not readily available in Cuba.
Ian and I continue to sail down the coast to Gilligan’s Island Nature reserve and onto La Paguera. Here weekend homes are built out over the mangroves in the water with often a fishing boat tied to the veranda or moored in the boat-port to the side.
All along this coast manatees, (big blubbery creatures that are a sort of cross between sunfish and giant seals) feed off the sea grass around the mangroves. I just caught sight of one submerging. We are advised by locals to take care to avoid them as they are protected.
Boqueron on the southern end of the west coast is our last port of call before departing for the Dominican Republic. This would be the nicest village we have visited in Puerto Rico, pretty cottages and street venders selling fresh oysters in their shells. A specialty of the bay, they are very similar to Sydney Rock oysters and are absolutely delicious.
Weather has now become important with the northerly winds that blast down from the USA about every 6 days. We will just have time to reach Luperon, shelter for three days and get ready to sail north to Grand Turk in the nice easterly that always follows.
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