Blue Water Rally - Halfway Round The World
by Peter Seymour on 28 Jul 2008
Rally Yachts in Refuge Harbour Vava’u Peter Seymour
After a leisurely few weeks cruising through the beautiful islands of French Polynesia, the Rally departed Bora Bora in early June and has since cruised through the Cook Islands, Niue, Tonga and Fiji.
"Not the best of weather – you should have been here last year!"
When we organisers have discussed writing a book about the Blue Water Rally we have often felt the title should be ‘You should have been here last year’! Our crews felt somewhat battered as they arrived in the Cook Islands, having experienced heavy seas and strong to gale force winds for the passage from Bora Bora.
Nonetheless they were soon relaxing in Raratonga and enjoying the famous Cook Island hospitality. Several of our yachts made visits to Aitutaki and gave the 1.7 metre entrance channel some
serious tests. Luckily none of the groundings resulted in more than a short time tied to the bottom or the closure of the entrance channel to the little port and quay!
On to Tonga via Niue
Poor weather patterns reduced the number of our yachts paying a call at Niue but, as ever, the welcome there was exceptionally warm and friendly. We always encourage our yachts to call in at Niue, remembering how badly this small island suffered from the hurricane not so long ago and the impact on its economy. The Yacht Club had increased their number of moorings and we took up a dozen or so
during the Rally visit.
The ever-helpful Commodore, Keith Vials, and his members could not have been more helpful in organising various events and ensuring that our visit was a memorable one. In fact our crews commented on the openness (literally) of the locals – when one of our crews needed to borrow some golfclubs, he was told to go to someone’s house and he would find a set inside the kitchen. Yes – the door is always open! What a change from society in general in our so-called civilised part of the world!
Tonga and a new culture – and the Great Dinghy
Race!
Tonga is one of the 20 ports of call where we provide direct support for Rally crews and our Support Manager, Richard Bolt, was on hand to aid the arrival of the Blue Water Rally fleet of 32 yachts in Neiafu, Vavau. The Rally had pre-booked moorings and a programme of formal and informal events to fill up the two weeks of their visit.
Thanks to the Tourist Board crews were entertained to a dance and cultural evening at the Paradise Hotel and to have the chance for a general get-together after some three weeks of free-cruising from French Polynesia. There was, of course, a large group
which went to an island church on Sunday and experienced the wonderful atmosphere and singing that is a hallmark of the Tongan island culture.
Then it was off into the Vavau Archipelago for some cruising, a beach barbecue and the traditional Blue Water Rally dinghy race. Each time we visit crews are invited to race their dinghies around one of the bays without using motors and with a maximum of 1 oar and a maximum of sail area constructed from whatever source they can find. The results were never completely certain, but a great time was had by all.
On to Fiji for two supported stopovers:
By early July Blue Water Rally yachts were arriving in Savusavu on Vanua Levu, the easterly of the two main Fiji islands. We have been visiting Savusavu since 1996 and it is always a great pleasure to return to visit our friends in this fascinating multicultural town. The centre for yachting in Savusavu is at the Copra Shed – true to its name the old copra shed is now converted to house the Yacht Club, a great restaurant, shops including an Internet facility, a travel agent and airline offices. (Yes, Savusavu has its airport and direct links to the international airport at
Nadi, as well as local flight connections).
There was, of course the traditional Fijian welcome, the Sevu Sevu - and a first introduction for most to the kava ceremony. Well, we can't say that we'll give up beer drinking said one skipper, but Ralliers were very privileged to be welcomed by the local high chief and a great display of singing and dancing.
The Savusavu Yacht Club and a chance to help the local young sailors:
One of the features we most admire about the Yacht Club is the effort that is made to provide an outlet for local
children to learn sailing. Some have progressed to success at national level and Savusavu has even produced Olympic sailing representatives for Fiji. Our Ralliers look for opportunities to support local good causes around the world and Savusavu’s young sailors are no exception.
All the events of our social programme produced a percentage of income to support the local young sailors, but the ‘main event’ was the Skippers’ Optimist Challenge with our skippers racing in the children’s tiny Optimist dinghies. The winner was the skipper of a Hallberg Rassy 54 and sometime international competitor in the
Admiral’s Cup. Nonetheless, he did have to fight a serious weight and size penalty! The 3-race competition raised around 1300 Fiji dollars and a total of nearly 4000 Fiji dollars (about GBP 1300) raised during our stay.
Cruising in the footsteps of Captain Bligh and on to Musket Cove:
An excellent route briefing by local sailor Curly Carswell, long-time friend of the Rally ensured skippers were well briefed for their 3 day passage through Bligh Water around the island of Viti Levu to Musket Cove.Yes it’s true – the Captain Bligh of Bounty fame, (but perhaps not the Bligh of Hollywood) who has given his name to the passage to the north of Viti Levu which is now the favoured route for most Rally yachts.
After the Bounty mutiny off Tonga William Bligh and his crew set off in an open boat on an amazing 3000 mile voyage to Kupang in what is now West Timor. (In fact he landed at some steps where our Blue Water Ralliers will themselves land in early October. But, on with the story…) Our yachtsmen passed through a shoal strewn passages in Bligh Water using modern GPS and chart plotters. Even now the navigation is challenging and it is humbling to think that Bligh sailed through with no such navaids and no Admiralty charts.
In fact, he considered it still his duty to their Lordships to take soundings whilst on passage. Oh, yes, throughout this he was being chased by cannibals in war canoes! His notes are recorded in his salt- stained log which returned with him to England and is still available to readers of maritime history today.. Whatever your views about his shipboard management skills, Bligh’s voyage was a sailing epic and our skippers raised a glass or two to him on the way!
Our friendship with Musket cove goes back 12 years and it was great to arrive and be greeted by so many familiar faces. Owner Dick Smith, himself a world sailor, has created a yacht-friendly resort (not so common around the world as you would think) which combines the best of yacht facilities with those of a sophisticated resort.
Our arrangements here remain year on year and our berthing stern-to in the marina has been pre-booked for many months. As expected, the efficient staff had allocated each yacht their promised slot on the pontoons with power and water only a few yards from the 4 Dollar (Fii Dollar!) island bar. At the end of the pontoon gangway is the marina office building and others housing the laundry, showers, rally office, shop, café, diving and watersports centre. There’s a whitesand beach, behind which there’s the excellent restaurant and 2 (yes,
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