Sailing with the Treleavens - Leeward Islands
by Andrea and Ian Treleaven on 21 Mar 2008
Prince Rupert Bay Dominica Ian & Andrea Treleaven
Ian and Andrea Treleaven, those veterans of 'Letters from the Med', have now sailed their lovely new yacht Cape Finisterre across the Atlantic to the Caribbean. Some bad luck meant that they waited for many weeks for a new mast, but have finally had it replaced and are headed off to enjoy sailing the Leeward Islands.
Leaving the Windward Islands for the Leeward Islands we are never out of sight of the next island. Perfect conditions, winds of 21
knots on the beam; tide going west, it couldn’t get any better. Between the islands is only 20 - 25 miles of open sea, otherwise you are in the shelter of the land.
Loving sailing again, we head out of south Martinique to Prince Rupert Bay in Dominica 68 nms north. It is our first long sail in the Caribbean where the wind strength and direction is constant, meaning perfect reaching up and down the islands.
Dominica, the most undeveloped island in the Caribbean, doesn’t disappoint us on
approach with rugged forest covering the volcanic mountains. Independent since 1978, with a population of only 70,000, the island has not been taken over by tourism. On approach we are greeted by boat boys, a little like 'tag', first to claim you, then to look after you during your stay, take you on tours and collect your rubbish - at a charge of course.
Providence is the name of our ‘mon’ and takes us on the Indian River cruise. Bloodwood trees line the river with their amazing root formation, hummingbirds, parrots and lizards all live in this ecologically friendly environment. Dominica is promoting itself as an eco-island and has gained financial support from the EU. The shores are rubbish free and all fishing and diving is restricted by license. Cruising yachts aren’t even allowed to troll along the coast.
The locals are very friendly, especially the children. They want to touch my hair and even ask for a ride in the inflatable dinghy. It is nice to have a language in common and feel we have come to a very special place of natural wonders.
By chance, wearing a Sydney Hobart shirt, we meet George Mottl, a well known sailing identity from Sydney staying on the island. Looking very well and traveling and sailing still at 80+.
Dominica is an English island lying between two French Islands, Martinique to the south and Guadeloupe to the north. As such she was in a very strategic position during the Napoleonic Wars
in the 1800's with lots of forts built by all. Fort Shirley in Prince Rupert Bay is being magnificently restored (EU money) with 17 of the original 34 cannons still in place. The fort saw no action as it was very intimidating but the major naval battle between the English and French took place in the channel to the north.
Having breakfast one morning, we were lucky to sight two whales just at the entrance of the bay. This is the season as they come down to the Caribbean from the Arctic and are regular visitors into this idyllic
peaceful bay.
The wind is calling and we should stay longer but Ian wants to move on so we sail to the small Les Saintes Islands only 18 miles north and part of Guadeloupe. We pass stunning turquoise bays and anchor beneath a pretty village on a barren dry landscape. We can’t believe the difference from what we had just left and regret it immediately. Reading our emails George Mottl invites us on a tour of Dominica not realising we have left. It wasn’t a hard decision to accept and plan to set sail early the next morning to return to paradise.
All in a day's work. Up at 6 o’clock we see the sunrise and head south in flat seas. At 8 o’clock we hook a 25 kilo Marlin, blood everywhere; we now have 25 beautiful steaks in the freezer. Ian did an amazing job getting this on board; with the rod bent into a circle, all I wanted to do was cut it free. Meeting up with Heinz and Elizabeth Oser next week, I am sure the steaks won’t last long.
Anchored by 10 o’clock, we met up with George and his friend Martin who lives here. A Slavic who has operated charter yachts in the Caribbean and has chosen the island to build his eco- dream home. They take us on a tour of the interior and the Atlantic coast. Driving through lush banana plantations, orange and grapefruit trees, we come to a rainforest at the foot of Morne Diablotins.
By 11 o’clock we are walking a trail that takes us
through 100 metre tall century old trees. It rains, naturally, but the fresh cool air is welcome. We are dwarfed and enclosed; daylight high above filtering through a canopy of leaves. It has all survived because it was too difficult to mill commercially.
The area is renowned for having exactly 365 rivers. We walk up and traverse a gentle river of bolder stones to the Syndicate waterfall, one of many spectacular sights.
Only locals know the secret road that takes you to a special North West coast deserted beach, black sand, white foam breaking sea and all overhung with long coconut palms. Driving south you come into the Carib Territory. Yes a small population of 3000 Caribs survived, they have a culture center village of how they lived and one big boiling pot. When asked about the white man they cooked in them, they said it wasn’t true.
5 o’clock dinner is ‘Robinson Cruise’ style tree top, one table only for 4, at the Indigo Restaurant. Décor of driftwood furniture, open to the birds and sunset, overlooking a lush tropical valley, what more could you ask for? What’s in the garden or trees is what’s on the menu. Fresh grapefruit juice, rum punch and ending with coconut cream ice-cream with ginger. What a day! - thanks to George and Martin.
The yachts around us are warning us of a storm up north which has produced a 5 metre swell and will roll through the Caribbean for 3 days. Not pleasant for sailing between islands, we will have to stay put in this magnificent bay for a little longer.
To see extra images of Andrea and Ian's experiences, click the small photographs below
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