Letter from the Med- Mohammedia, Casablanca, Fes

by Andrea and Ian Treleaven on 17 Oct 2007 Hi Every one,

Mohammedia is the beach resort for Casablanca which is only 16nm south of here. The new marina being built in Casablanca will not be complete until 2010 and as Mohammedia Marina is well guarded and the only one on this coast we have decided to stay put and visit places from here. Even the Kings personal launch is in view of us.

The romance of Casablanca is where we all dream of going to someday! A ‘petit taxi’ takes us to the edge of town, then the ‘grand taxi’ to Casablanca and there’s nothing grand about either. No air conditioning and no door handles, if you want the window down, to let all the dust in, he passes you the handle. We are not very impressed by the poverty we see on the way and negotiate for the taxi to stay with us.

We finally get to the vast Mosque Hassan 11 and this is very grand. On the water front where once a shanty town of extreme poverty was, stands now the third largest Mosque in the world. Completed in 1993 at great cost to the people it is now a legacy of Moroccan architecture. This is one of the few Mosques in the world that allows non Muslims to visit inside.

Marble everywhere, ornate cedar wood, granite, coloured glass and chandeliers decorate the inside. From the washing fountains to the steam rooms it’s all very impressive. The 200 metre high minaret looks over a city where a third of its population live in tin towns without sewage so a lot of this doesn’t make sense to us.

Across from the shanty medina market another extreme difference is the Hotel Hyatt Regency with sheer luxury as we sink into black leather chairs, dark red wood panelled walls and white marble lamp shades. The Casablanca Bar themed on the movie is the only reminder of the famous movie but in fact the location for the movie was Hollywood. At this stage we realise we have to pay big money to find the beautiful side of Morocco.

Next day a five hour train trip takes us all inland to the largest living Islamic medieval city of Fes, where we plan to stay overnight. High season and accommodation isn’t easy as we want to stay only in a Riad, a traditionally restored old family Palace converted to exclusive guest houses inside the medinas. We are met outside the medina by the manager and walked down narrow lanes with very high walls of Sahara clay plaster, engulfing us into another world.

A key unlocks an old wood carved arched door and we enter yet another world as we gasp at the central interior of high ornate white plastered walls, tiles of blue and white, carved wood, gold inlay ceilings and the colours of Morocco we have come for, orange, red, yellow, lime green glass and pottery. ‘Au vingt Jasmins’ (20 Jasmines) is perfect as we (not John) sip mint tea and gaze out to the private garden of arches covered in jasmine.

After a no alcohol lunch in a Palace (Ian hated couscous before we got here and now he hates it even more) we take a guided tour in the maze of streets and all the boys are looking for is a beer. The young King is in the Mosque and half of the medina is closed which brings a smile to Johns face. Around the alleyway from our hotel is ‘Riad Fes’ Hotelier de Luxe with a superb modern Moroccan interior, world class bar and restaurant, we all couldn’t be happier.

Great company, Andrea and John return to Spain and we return to the yacht very satisfied with a new perspective of Morocco. Kevin Horne is joining us now and we will wait until he arrives, then go straight to the Canaries a 430nm crossing to Lanzarote. Further south are more fishing ports but don’t really accommodate our size yacht.

Enjoying some quiet time we are getting to know Mohammedia and the friendly locals are getting to know us. A lot of French is spoken here and the French Patisseries are a welcome sight every day now that Ramadan has finished, the difference is amazing. Some women are now in modern colourful dress, cafes open and full of happy people.

[Sorry, this content could not be displayed] Getting fuel has been a new experience for us, we have to take 30 litre jerry cans to the station about 1km away and carry them back. Flying our ARC flag we are now meeting a lot of other boats doing the same. ‘Blizzard’ from New Zealand is here and we all enjoy a few drinks together. Only four weeks to the race and every time I think about it I get that shiver in my stomach.

For Ian’s 60th birthday we go inland to Marrakesh to find that special place on the edge of the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert. An Oasis of tall palm trees greets us, after a flat dry desert train ride. Pink stucco buildings, a medina with 15 arch entrances, mopeds in their hundreds and then the initial shock of Berbers and Arabs living as they have done for 100s of years.

Our Riad Farnatchi, complete with its own hammam, is authentic and luxurious. The nicest thing about these places is the calming effect it has on you. The central courtyard with pool and sounds of running water is very cooling, above; rooms with their own balconies look down. The afternoon is spent relaxing after a black soap scrub on hot white marble tiles in the hammam.

The must see Majorelle Gardens were the creation and private garden of Jacques Majorelle the painter, now owned by Yves Saint Laurent and open to the public. A collection of plants from five continents is a work of art where one can sit and listen to the birds. Ian is more interested in YSL’s mansion next door.

The souk here is a pleasant surprise as we pass through to get to the Djemaa el Fna Square, where the evening is like no other place in the world. Snake charmers, story tellers, acrobats and fortune tellers entertain more locals than tourists. Along side are food stalls, sheep’s head stew, snail soup and fried fish all ready for you to sit down on benches and enjoy the atmosphere. Not exactly what Ian wants for his birthday so we dine on chicken targine with preserved lemon and olives, beef with orange marmalade at a restored Palace under the stars.

[Sorry, this content could not be displayed] The new French town outside the medina for lunch the next day, Grand de la Poste is very French, no couscous, as we wait to get the train home to our own sanctuary of luxury, Finisterre.

Cheers Andrea and Ian

PS Ian was thrilled at all the birthday wishes he received. Thank you, you made his day very special.