Galapagos at risk says Charles Darwin Foundation
by Nancy Knudsen on 27 May 2007
Galapagos species marine iguana BW Media
Having sailed into Galapagos on our way across the Pacific, I am in one of the shady outdoor cafés that abound in Puerto Ayora. I am amazed to find myself sharing a pino colada with an Aussie, Roslyn Cameron, who is a long time resident of this remotest of places. Her smile is engaging, eyes frank and friendly; fair hair back in a long plait, halo of wisps around the face. After a minute I feel I have known her since childhood, but in fact I am talking to the public face of the Charles Darwin Foundation, which has done so much to save the archipelago's fragile endemic species.
But the story I am hearing is not a happy one. South Australian born Roslyn, who arrived here in 1991, fell in love with the islands, married and has an eight year old son, is, like many of her colleagues, disturbed about the precariousness of Galapagos today.
Recently both a UNESCO Mission declared that the Galapagos is 'at risk'. So at risk that the President of Equador a few weeks ago described the situation as an emergency and issued a new Decree for stronger implementation of current laws. In the past few days I have conversed with several local residents, activists and visiting volunteers, and listened to the rumours that abound about underhand industries – illegal fishing and gaming – which are alarming those who treasure the wildlife of the island. Several organisations, some under cover, are working hard to prove allegations of a shark fin industry and abuse of sea-lions.
At a more transparent level, the Charles Darwin Foundation, here since 1959, has cooperated with the National Parks Service to achieve some creditable wins – goats eradicated, endangered species bred and reintroduced successfully, cats and some invasive blueberry bushes gone. So, with these impressive achievements, why the current alarm? Are there new introduced animals? New diseases?
No, while these may be the symptom, the cause of the new threat is humans - too many of them. First, the standard of living in Galapagos is higher than in Ecuador generally, so it's an attractive place for adventurous Ecuadorians looking to improve their lot. Since 2001, the population has increased by over 30% to 23,000 on Santa Cruz alone, and it is estimated that there are also over 5000 illegal immigrants, who have overstayed tourist visas. Second, the tourism industry has expanded exponentially in the last few years. Not only are there the ubiquitous cruise boats taking tourists to the well known wildlife areas under supervision, but also Eco tourism has arrived. Now there are kayaking tours, bicycling tours and horseback riding.
So – why not?
Roslyn explains: 'With every new human that sets foot in this archipelago, there is a ( new) requirement for food, accommodation, fuel, supplies of all types. Every single cargo ship that arrives potentially carries a threat. In every box that comes ashore there could be invasive species, viruses, plant seeds or diseases. There are other aspects too such as trends for acquiring fashionable dogs – cocker spaniels and Labradors and bringing them illegally to the islands. Every new non-endemic animal could be a carrier for something that may not be harmful to them, but could affect one of our Galapagos species.
'For instance, the West Nile Disease is not here yet, but if it were the impacts on the birds such as the 'Darwin’s’ finches could be devastating. A relatively recently arrived introduced bird– the smooth billed Ani, a large black bird that you see around the town, is a potential vector for this disease. This is a bomb waiting to explode – we are in constant trepidation of the arrival of West Nile, with all the new activities developing in the islands at a rate that park management and the quarantine service cant keep up with.
'So while the goals of the Charles Darwin Foundation have not changed, it's crucial that our approach changes to meet the new threats. While we began with our focus on science based research, now that is not enough. The successful combination of science and management in the past with the growing population and visitor’s conservation needs that third stable corner of stewardship- community involvement. We are fortunate in having the vision and leadership of our new Executive Director, Graham Watkins.
To achieve these goals, the Foundation is using a combination of education of the local population, lobbying of Ecuadorian Government to strengthen and implement laws on immigration and quarantine, and a continuation of their traditional role in cooperation with the National Park Service.
' It's critical that we have buy-in from the local population,' says Roslyn. 'People who come here from other centres are here to make money, not necessarily preserve the environment. So we want to educate our own children so that all local jobs at every level are filled by residents, who are committed to the future of Galapagos.'
A big task indeed, but if the passion and determination espoused by Roslyn Cameron is any indication of the rest of the Darwin Foundation, I could not doubt their eventual success. In the meantime, I have noticed her use of the expression 'our children'.
'Is this 'home' now?' I ask.
For the first time, Roslyn looks hesitant. 'O I don't know,' she muses. 'I love my life here, and I have an amazing job. Somehow this island clicks for me. I am enchanted by the sense of freedom, and there's no 'stranger danger'. I love the sense of camaraderie here, and all the healthy unprocessed foods. In lots of ways, it's like the Outback, isolated, people depend on each other.'
While we've been talking, not one, but several folk have waved, or stopped to make social arrangements, or just say hi and pass the time of day. It's apparent that whether Roslyn thinks of the Puerto Ayora as home, the other residents of this small village regard her affectionately as their own.
When you are a cruising sailor, you just never know who you will meet next!
As for the Galapagos, the delicate archipelago and the animals pictured in this story never needed your help more. One way of achieving this is by becoming a Friend of Galapagos. To find out more, please visit the websites of www.galapagos.org or that of the Charles Darwin Foundation, at www.darwinfoundation.org
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