Letter from the Med- End of season Vis - Biograd

by Ian and Andrea Treleaven on 3 Oct 2006 The Island of Vis is 25 nms from Hvar Island and only 70nmiles from the coast of Italy. Vis port is very cute and if you have the time while cruising, it is well worth a visit but be sure to check the weather forecast.

Sirocco and tramontana winds lash this rugged coastline and you could find yourselves staying a few more days than expected. Tourism is new to this island and they are very welcoming. Once an out of bounds Military Island, it is a place where grape vines have been growing for 2000 years, submarine caves everywhere and a blue grotto.

Entering the port of Vis you pass the Cemetery and Monastery commanding the peninsular. Tying stern too a long town wall we moor right outside the centre with cafes, internet and market at the end of our passerelle (gang plank).

Hiring a green convertible VW, racing enthusiast Bob Fraser at the wheel, we circumnavigate the island. Grapes are being harvested now, from vines that haven’t changed in time. We call into a basic vineyard and get to know the family. The two elders are already comatose, as the young ones tend to the crushing. Some of the Svilicic Family went to Australia to make wine, others stayed, its very tough conditions here. Leaving with their Viska Vugava white wine, we have to say it is the best white we have drunk in Croatia.

The scenery is stony, wild and very steep, with many coves, so we decide to see more by boat. The blue grotto on the island of Bisevo has a window of two hours in which to see the best light reflected from the sun. An early start, we sail to the west side. Too deep to anchor we take it in turns in the dinghy to pass through the small opening. The grotto is huge and the colours spectacular. Whilst waiting our turn to enter, the coast guard and Police came along side and check our papers. This is a first for us in four years. They were very courteous and went on to the next yacht.

On the south side of Vis, is a beautiful clean cove called Stiniva, we snorkel between white cliffs and actually wonder if it’s real, and it’s so peaceful. Then sail on to the century old fishing village of Komiza for the night. Actually we have been here before. Two years ago on our way south from Venice to Brindisi we called in here with Pip and Geoff Lavis and Kevin Horne.

Original stone waterside houses reflect history of Stone Age, Illyrians, Greeks and Romans, all having passed through here over the ages. The biggest legacy as in the rest of Croatia is the influence of the Venetians but this island in particular has a strong Italian feel. Wind direction has us sailing back to Hvar and anchoring in the bay on the south side of the island of Klement. Over turquoise clear water, we take in the last beautiful days of summer.

Slowly moving up the coast, taking in more beautiful bays, we are now in Biograd at Marina Kornati as a guest of our friend Milan Sangulin. Soon after we docked, the press where everywhere, but no it isn’t us its Russell Coutts. In town with his new RC 44 one design racing yacht, he is match racing the Croatia team in a few weeks time. After a great catch up we invite him on board and he left with my book ‘Letters from the Med’.

Marina Kornati is fast becoming known as an excellent race venue, especially the 20 identical 42 foot race boats owned by Robert Lang which are in action all season.

Sails washed, ropes moused, upholstery laundered and all those boring things, we still have the weekend to enjoy. As The Kornati Islands are close and the weather fine, we head out to Dugi Otak and the inland salty lake with a magnificent walk along the high white cliffs over looking the Kornati Islands. Taking us by surprise was a snake.

De-Commissioning Cadiz in Marina Kornati Biograd where facilities are first class, all staff speak several languages, a self serve laundromat and sail repairer a short distance away. For her winter stay Cadiz will be high and dry in Marina Dalmacija 12nm north of here. Our 2006 season is over, 2300 nm sailed, passing through six countries, it has been a wonderful year.

Out here we have learned to appreciate nature and especially the night sky and all that is around us.

In the night sky is Venus almost close enough to reach.
My best friend is the moon, especially when crossing the ocean at night.
But my best memory is the meteorite that entered the earth’s atmosphere, burst into a million pieces and disappeared.

Thankyou to all who shared it with us and thankyou all for reading this and hope you enjoyed the continuing dream.

Next year we are undecided as to whether to go west or east.

West to Spain for the Americas Cup in June, July and France for the Rugby World Cup in October?

Or east, to sail the northern Greek Islands, onto Istanbul and into the Black Sea?

Or maybe after four years it is time to take a break. Decisions, decisions!!!!!!

Cheers for 2006

Andrea and Ian