Malaysia's Terengganu Cruising-Exploring the Country

by Sail-World Cruising/Al Constable on 3 Apr 2006 .


Sail-World's Al Constable recently visited the East Coast of Malaysia for the very first Monsoon Cup, a regatta spread over six days, and heavily supported by the Prime Minister, as part of the opening up of these idyllic cruising grounds. She went exploring while she was there, and here is a tale of the OTHER rewards that wait you if you cruise up this coast.















OVERVIEW:

As you arrive from the South China Sea, the sand island called Palau Duyong enhances the Terengganu River entrance. There’s the city of Kuala Terengganu on the left bank, dominated by a large hill and a sign in Arabic – ‘God Bless Terengganu’.

The impressive Heritage Bay resort area is currently quite small, but further development is planned for a large resort of world class standard, with excellent marina facilities. Stage II will be finished later this year.

Further up the island, towards the bridge spanning the river which blocks further travel by yachts, is a residential area comprising modest houses with the odd mansion on the waterfront.

The area is still very sandy - small fishing boats are tied up at the docks dotted along riverbanks. At each wharf, small stalls sell fruit, meals and drinks. In this area reside the famous Terengganu boat builders, craftsmen who sculpt the most amazing wooden boats without set plans or using modern building methods. Their traditional knowledge and skills are a gift, handed down from generation to generation.

On one side of the river sits the city and on the other side of the river sit the traditional houses, docks and fishing boats. The Floating Mosque is exquisite, but one of many that call the majority Malay Muslim population to prayer five times a day. At night the streets of the city are decorated with lights, various other large coloured fountains and brightly lit large flowers.
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We’re here in the Monsoon Season and the river is brown at this time of the year, from the mud washed down from the hills by the rain. At other times of the year the water is an emerald green, contrasting with the abundant yellow sand.

As you venture up into the hills, towards Kenyir Lake, the river narrows slightly and becomes windy. Sand turns to muddy banks, teeming with water monitors and birdlife. You can spot a few logging camps, the villages and areas of cleared jungle that have been occupied by the villages and their populations. Surprisingly, very modern living complexes of two and three story buildings are also visible, in areas one would not expect to see such developments.

Cleared areas of jungle have been planted out as plantations and these distinctive areas criss-cross the green jungle.

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The Lake itself, the largest man made lake in South East Asia, is situated high up in the mountain tops, surrounded completely by virgin forest, full of steep gorges and waterfalls. Sekayu is the best known of these. The sheer size and beauty of the area is breathtaking, the dark green mountaintops hugged by white wispy cloud.

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Kenyir Lake also is Malaysia’s largest rock-filled dam with a catchment area of 38,000 hectares. Its waters are used to generate hydroelectric power. At its deepest it is 145 metres, and is used for recreational boating and fishing and its surrounding areas for caving and trekking. Day tours and 4WDrive tours are easy to arrange.

The area is accessible by boat from Kuala Terengganu (approximately 80 kms)or by road, about an hour and a half’s drive and is an approximately seven hour drive from Kuala Lumpur. Express buses also service the area.

A VISIT TO THE LOCAL MARKET

From the Heritage Bay Resort on Palau Duyong, we had to go down to the river’s edge to catch a boat across the river to the central market. To get to the wharf, our method of transport was a trishaw, a human powered tricycle with a cabin attached. The best ones had the loudest radios….

Our trishaw journey took us west through the fishing villages and a residential area of the island. Modest houses sat next to each other, some children waved, adults carried out their daily business as the Muslim ‘Call to Prayer’ clearly wafted through the streets.

The man peddling the tricycle was very helpful and spoke a spattering of English. It certainly helped that our shopping companions spoke a spattering of Malay.

The wharf we arrived at was simple, with several small fishing boats tied in rows against it. In the background beckoned the city, and the ever-present threat of monsoon rain looming.

In due course a small passenger boat arrived, to ferry people across and up and down the river. It was a simple elongated covered wooden shell with benches and a diesel engine, and a smiling friendly driver.

We duly arrived at the dock at the same time as the rain, and proceeded to ask directions to the Central Market.

However, the rain encountered was never heavy, and as the air is warm and surprisingly not really humid, the conditions were very pleasant.

The town waterfront area comprised a few tall buildings, with rather narrow streets jam packed with stores, selling everything from brassware to food and clothing. Chinese and Indian shops intermingled with the Malay shops and stalls. We even passed a florist, loading a van with elaborate arrangements.

Once arrived at the Central Market, after a leisurely stroll in the rain (after all it is Monsoon season), the senses are immediately overwhelmed by the sights and smells.

The market is a large two-storey building, housing many hundreds of stalls, selling everything you might need. The outside surrounds comprise mainly of clothing and material stalls. Elaborate lengths of beautiful hand painted silk adorn the stalls, alongside the traditional batik and songket. Gold jewelery, gleaming and beautiful, is sold by weight (per gram).

Venturing further into the market, you will come across the spice and grain stalls, selling some familiar and some very unfamiliar products. Chillies abound, from the large red dried variety to the smaller, red and fiery types. The fruit and vegetables stalls are next, again selling oranges, mangoes, bananas and similarly familiar products. There is a vast array of produce on offer, potatoes and onions of all colours and sizes, odd-looking leaves and stalks (local greens), yams and regional delicacies. The atmosphere is one of business with a friendly style. Sellers greet the visitor with a smile and often a hello; one does not feel hassled or pressured to buy. Instead you are encouraged to ‘come in and look’ and if you ask for assistance it is readily available. The reasonably priced gleaming brassware is hard to resist, candlesticks and ornaments prominent; the maze of stalls seems never ending.

Suddenly the nose is very aware of a strong odour – fish. In one corner of the building sits the fish market, selling dried and fresh fish and products. The area is well known for its fish products – it is hard to describe the display of fish crackers available; they seem to come in every shape, size and colour. Fish also comes dried, salted, deep-fried, flaked and fresh. Apparently poultry is also available; somehow I managed to miss this area.

Upstairs, the maze of stalls continue – more intricate painted silk hangs from the rafters, tables and tables of hand painted batik, hand woven bags, tops, shoes, cooking utensils – all displayed with care and attention. Some stalls even display signs indicating they accept Bankcard, Visa and Amex - a temptation as the silk materials are truly beautiful.

The market has a food hall, with locals eating the typical Malaysian foods; such as Lemak, and gooey, sticky swee