Destination - Turkey
by Nancy Knudsen on 12 Jan 2006
Kekova from the Castle top.JPG Media Services
Turkey is emerging as one of the most alluring destinations for Mediterranean cruising. This article introduces the several coastlines and some of the most attractive anchorages, as well as the insider story on planning a cruising holiday
Turkey’s high mountains plunge dramatically into the sea and its waters are clear and warm. Admittedly, the beaches don’t satisfy those accustomed to the Pacific but the grass grows to the shoreline if allowed, and the tiny restaurants are glowing with welcome. There’s a natural warmth about the Turkish people, an open-heartedness ?even in the hottest tourist spots, the touts are genial and take knock-backs with a smile.
The coastline is indented with thousands of gulfs and bays, spread along many hundreds of miles from Ayvalik in the North West, to Antalya in the South. While they vary from still and secluded to wide and hopping with night-clubs, most of them are navigable and all those are havens for the cruising sailor. Any trip along this coastline is also a journey back in time, with a plethora of archaeological sites, from castles and forts to tombs and temples, that reflect the country’s rich and complex history.
While the coastlines of Greece, Italy, France and Spain have become overcrowded and very expensive, Turkey remains, for the time being, a largely undiscovered treasure for sailing in Europe, with many of the bays littered with the ubiquitous small restaurants. Some of these are just set up for the cruising season, and the operators abandon the site during winter. Of course the hot spots of Turkey are crowded too, but a little planning can give the best of all possible worlds.
One of the most important keys to cruising in Turkey, as anywhere, is to sail against the prevailing wind for the outward journey, so that it’s a clear downward run when it’s time to head for home. The most crowded part of the coast is around the coastal resorts of Bodrum and Marmaris, although having said that, parts of the southern coastline of the Gulf of Korvezi are comparatively deserted even in the height of the season.
The prevailing wind is mostly from the north west during summer, so our advice is - no matter where you start, sail west/north west first, and return with the wind.
The meltemi, that Mediterranean wind with a bad reputation, normally sets in at around 11.00am in the cruising season. So if you're going against the wind but want to make distance anyway, the advice is to leave at first light and use early morning land breezes if they're around, so as to get into the next port before the stong meltemi sets in.
The good news is that it drops at night, giving you mostly a good night's sleep in your chosen anchorage. Of course, if you're unlucky, it can blow day and night for days on end, making progress into the wind sometimes very difficult - leave yourself enough time, and just wait it out!
There are five broad areas to choose from, and each one deserves treatment on its own. However, here is an overview:
The Aeolian Coast: the Dardenelles to Cesme, a more sophisticated and truly Turkish coastline, where you are less likely to run into hordes of tourists. The hills are lower and not as dramatic as the more southerly coastline, but this is compensated by interesting villages and Turkish lifestyle and cuisine.
The Ionian Coast: Cesme - Izmir - Kusadasi - G?l? - Bodrum, a coastline which claims the to have the best climate and which shores brought forth the rich culture of the Ionians and their great philosophers.
The Carian Coast: Bodrum - Marmaris, the most popular sailing ground which includes the two largest yacht charter bases in Turkey: Bodrum and Marmaris.
The west Lycian Coast: Marmaris - Fethiye, the pirate coast with its wild, mountainous shores and hundreds of hidden coves.
The east Lycian Coast: Fethiye - Kas - Finike - Antalya, the least inhabited of all, with simple welcoming locals, great castle cities and idyllic bays. The Lycian rock tombs and solid stone sarcophagi abound, along with underwater city remains and old Grecian cities, still largely intact.
When to go ? the best months:
Our best advice is to choose the part of the coast to cruise together with the dates. If you visit Turkey in April, May, June, September or October, the hotter coastlines are wonderful, choose either the Carian or the Lycian Coast. If, however, you wish to visit in July or August, cruise either the Aeolian or the Ionian coasts, when it is extremely hot in the more south easterly coastlines.
Cruising Guide:
The Bible for the area is the ‘Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot by Rod Heikell.
We have found this book extremely helpful and quite accurate, although the descriptions of the anchorages are more anecdotal than consistent. Just because the ‘Bible' doesn’t say that it’s a good mud bottom, doesn’t mean that it is bad holding. It just means, we think, that they don’t know. However, the warnings about such aspects as wind and weed were always accurate.
Dangers:
Gulets. Those wonderfully romantic old wooden sailing boats, which these days rarely hoist a sail, have set commercial routes, and set anchoring points.
They even put spikes in the rocks to tail their boats. If you happen to be in their ‘spot?watch out, as they will anchor blissfully right on top of your boat. They’re bigger, and the short answer is, you have to move , as they won’t.
Charter Cruising sailing boats - lacking much anchoring skill, many charter boats, particularly some nationalities(email me) can be a problem, particularly in tight anchorages
Our favourite anchorages and marinas:
In total, we have spent six months cruising the Turkish coast, but still have not seen even half of it ?there was not enough time. So this is an idiosyncratic list of our favourites.
Phaselis A very good anchorage, if a little busy with gullets (Graceful old style Turkish sailing boats, now used for tourist trips) The 2,000 year old stone village is the drawcard
Cinivis Limani A tiny, excellent anchorage in thousand metre cliff surroundings
Cavis Limani A beach, not bad, indifferent town, but go ashore and walk along the esplanade to the right until you reach the creek for an extraordinary unique and inexpensive dining experience
Kekova Roads Yyou can become addicted to this multi-faceted anchorage. It has amazing beauty, extraordinary history, enchanting villages, sunken cities, good swimming, good eating, go and see Jacqueline at Onur’s restaurant, and say Blackwattle sent you
Kas Anchor in the charming bay about 2 km to the east of the marina. It’s clear water, great swimming, and you can hail the local little ferries to collect you direct from your boat to go to Kas.
Fethiye We mention this one, only because it is practically a cyclone hole, it is so secure. Very close to the town also, very convenient (but maybe not for swimming)
Twelve Islands This is marvelous cruising ground just near Gocek, the peak bays being Ruin Bay, Wall Bay and Tomb Bay
Gorkova Korfezi - the southern shore of this large bay has several large anchorages which are not as crowded as others, as the charter boats don’t go there. Don’t miss English Harbour, Amazon Creek. Forget Pelican Bay, too crowded.
Gumusluk One of the most engaging and interesting bays and villages on the coast. The charisma here is second only to Kekova!
Bozburun We missed this anchorage, but have heard such rave reports from folks who went there, that we include it here anyway
Badlemi Very interesting area, good anchorage, well known to Turks as a lovely place to visit.
Marinas we have visite
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