Correct anchoring procedures

by Jarrod Day on 6 Aug 2012 Why is it, we spend so much time sounding around finding fish only to drop the anchor and be completely off the mark.

There is no doubt that anchoring correctly is no easy task, getting the boat in position and dropping the pick at the exact moment to land where predicted is about as hard as boating gets.

Experienced anglers have this art down to a tee whereby it is as smooth as silk laying the anchor in pin point precision over a reef.

Correct anchoring procedures involve the precise placement of the anchor using a blend of common sense, a few basic rules and a bit of good luck that, like most things, can be improved with preparation and practice.

Preparation:
Most importantly is the storage space for your anchor, in small boats it is limited. Some anglers utilise a plastic tub to stow their anchor keeping it out of the way until needed. In larger craft, most have an anchor well in the bow in which the rope, chain and anchor can be easily stowed. Storing your anchor correctly will make life a lot easier when you’re attempting to anchor, let alone when you want to fish.

Anchor rope coiled on the deck of the boat can be very dangerous particularly when wet, so store it correctly.
Next in line is your depth sounder, knowing how to read the bottom will pay dived ends when attempting to deploy your anchor. Your depth sounder will give you a visual sign as to what you are placing your anchor on; this can also show you underwater obstructions to avoid getting your anchor stuck.

Last of all is which anchor is right for you, there is a multitude of anchors available and knowing which one better suits your boat is very important. Having the correct anchor will aid in maximizing your holding power by matching your anchor with the type of bottom you regularly fish on?

Types of anchors:
There are two main types of anchors, burying and hooking. Burying anchors penetrate into the seafloor while hooking anchors rely on snagging the surface of the bottom such as reef. Burying anchors, such as the ever common Danforth are almost the standard in anchors but others such as the Bruce and Plough are also used. These anchors are best used in sand, clay, and mud. Hooking anchors, such as the Northill, Folding Grapnel and the grapnel are designed for use on gravel, coral, rock and weed-covered bottoms.

There is no specific anchor that is the 'best' and there will always be a debate, so it is important you make your selection depending on where you’re going to be anchoring. If you can’t decide on just one, then opt for two if your fishing grounds have a mixture of sand and reef.

Setting up the anchor:
When setting up your anchor there are two main elements: the anchor and the rode. A rode is the nautical term for the length of rope that connects the anchor with the boat. Specific nylon rope is available to allow for the rope to stretch when there is wave action. Most anchor rope comes in lengths of 100 metres which is substantial in most cases. Joining the rope to the chain is via a D-Shackle which should be galvanised.

A little hint I picked up some years ago was to seize the shackle after attaching the chain to the anchor. The reason for this is with all the constant wave motion caused; the pressure on the shackle can loosen the locking pin.

There are two ways in seizing the shackle; one is to use a galvanized D-Shackle. In this case, over a period of time the shackle will rust and lock closed. Though this does take quite some time it is much quicker using the second method. This is done by securely tying stainless steel wire around the screw and the shackle. These days you can also use a plastic cable tie which is equally as effective.

The rope is then attached to a length of chain which is used to assist the anchor in holding on the bottom. The length of chain is determined by the length of your boat and is suggested that a boat length of chain be used. This also aids in abrasion resistance when on reef by pulling the anchor to a more horizontal position because of the weight of the chain.

Deploying your anchor:
When anchoring, drop the anchor while stationary or slowly drifting backwards. While doing so let the rope out keeping minimum pressure on the rope but not lifting the anchor.

A general ratio of rope length let out should be 3:1 with 1 being the vertical distance from the seabed to the bow roller. If you’re anchoring in 5 metres of water, you should let out 15 metres of rope.

The ropes effect on the holding power is determined by the amount of chain and rope given out.

If you use a smaller ratio, in rough weather you could be blown off the mark and dragging your anchor can be dangerous.

After deploying your anchor, it pays to add a waypoint into your GPS or if you haven’t a GPS take a land mark into consideration. If you notice your moving off the mark or passing your land mark, the anchor isn’t holding in position and you’ll need to reset it or let out more rope.

When dropping the anchor, it is vital you don’t just 'chuck' it overboard. Doing this is a sure way to tangle the anchor in the rope and chain. You also need to make sure the boat isn’t moving in a forward motion or you’re likely to get the anchor rope caught in the engines propeller resulting in danger.

It is best if the anchor is gently lowered to the sea floor, when you feel the anchor has reached the bottom, firmly holding the rope. Slowly release it through your hands until you feel the anchor dig in. Meanwhile the boat should be in reverse to guide the anchor to the bottom. Once it has, tie off onto the bow cleat and begin fishing.

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Retrieving your anchor:
Retrieving your anchor can be quite hard work to say the least. Pulling up a 15 pound plough anchor connected to 6 metres of chain, some rope and 4 knots current can make even the fittest angler huff and puff.

In some instances when anchoring over heavy reef, your anchor might become snagged and even in the attempt to pull it up, it may not work.

A solution to this is with the use of an anchor buoy. An anchor buoy is large foam or air filled plastic float attached to a solid ring or Anka Yanka via a 50 or so centimetre length of rope. The anchor rope runs freely through the solid ring which aids in floating the anchor to the surface when retrieving.

This technique requires some finer details but basically as you drive off the buoy runs down to the anchor and dislodges it from the bottom, floating it to the surface. Then you can pull it in much easier.

This technique has other advantages, with the use of the buoy floating on the anchor rope; it can warn other boaters of where your anchor rope is. It is also useful as a marker in case of an emergency where you have to cut the anchor off. The buoy can float on the surface and on returning in calmer conditions you can find your anchor and attempt to retrieve it once again.

After the anchor has been retrieved, it can be stowed in the bow locker, if the anchor buoy is too big to fit, detach it from the rope and store in another location.

The bottom line:
Correctly anchoring requires preparation, patients and most importantly practice. Without these three P’s, you are more likely going to run into trouble resulting in unavoidable accidents.

With more hours spent on the water, you’ll soon find yourself anchoring like the experts.

Retrieving your anchor using an Anka Yanka:

Step. 1
When you have finished fishing and are ready to pack up for the day, put the boat in reverse for a few seconds to ensure the anchor rope is taut. Steer the boat to either the Port (left) or Starboard (right) side whichever you’re comfortable with. Head off at a 30 degree angle from where the anchor rope is set (at this point, the Anka Yanka should already be attached to the anchor rope).

Step. 2
At a rate of approximately 6-8 knots, motor forward in a large arch keeping the rope taut at the 30 degrees. This will force the anchor buoy under the water towards where the anchor lay. This will also dislodge it and cause it to float to the surface due to both the friction and drag of the boat motoring into the tide.

Step. 3

Step. 4
At this point you can pull in the anchor rope in hand over fist with ease.

Step. 5
The buoy and anchor should be pulled gently towards the cockpit of the boat. The anchor chain will be the first to be lifted over the gunwales after the anchor rope and finally the anchor itself with the buoy and Anka Yanka attached. When lifting make sure the anchor and chain doesn’t smash against the hull, this will only cause damage to the boat.

As with all boating procedures, practice makes perfect and if you’re well trained, the Anka Yanka system will help you significantly when anchoring.