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Detuning a Penultimate International 14?

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Rupert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rupert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 21 at 8:56am
Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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skslr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skslr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 21 at 10:39am
More like this one maybe:


Apparently there was a "Standard" rigg more 470ish and a "Grand Prix" rigg which may have met the int14 rules back then.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skslr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 21 at 2:12pm
Thanks to your encouraging words in this thread we actively searched for a Penultimate International 14, found an Ovington Howlett 1 B and bought it for too little money to complain about anything.

As this is a "project" anyway, we accepted that it is not really ready to sail:

Hull

Some fine cracks in the gelcoat, but nothing severe in the high-stress areas. Transom has some strange little drain holes whithout any threads for plugs or whatsoever.
We could easily lift it with two persons so it cannot be massively overweight, some day we will weigh it properly. Some GRP repairs have not been repainted but we could not care less. The non-slip is pink, even my daughter is not sure about this one.
Anyway, the kids want a unicorn head to be drawn on the bow such that the kite pole is the "horn" :-)

Rigg

Alumnium twin spreader, mast foot is not on the cockpit floor, but on top of the reinforcement tubing between bow and chainplates. 
The original push rod at gooseneck height has been replaced with lowers.

Boom

Previous owner could not find it anymore. But we luckily found another int14 Boom for next to nothing.

Daggerboard

Made from wood, needs some glas + epoxi but hopefully no major root. To really now this we would need to sand off the white paint...
The hull features a kind of cassette for the daggerboard that can be moved about 2 inches forward or backward by repositioning chocks.


Rudder

Only the blade itself of the fixed rudder was still there. The leading edge was severly damaged, the lower fitting was somehow ripped off, leading edge has been rotting away quite badly.
We would like some kind of lifting rudder, but the distance between the fittings on the hull is quite a bit larger than on e.g. RS boats, so standard rudder stocks do not fit.
Maybe we can rebuild the rudder blade and have some local shop build a bespoke rudder stock?

Fittings

Figuring out all the sytems for adjustable mast rake and so on will take a lot of time. Changing mast rake hardly makes any sense on our little gravel pit. Main sheet cleat is missing, the idea is to change to transom/off-boom sheeting anyway.
If we can make the jib furler work again it will help launching etc when one of our kids is crewing. For the same reason I would like to lead at least the vang back to the helm, right now all the control lines are cleated at the shrouds.

Sails

All measured during the 90s...
Jib and first main are still ok. The lower part of the second main is really worn out, so it would be a good candidate for cutting it down...
The kite cloth is really, really soft :-)

The Jib is so big that we will do a test with the mainsail of our RS Feva which will create the targeted sail area in total - of course this would move the center of effort way forward...

Trolley

Would propbably work ok for a light weight 12 foot boat, way to small for this one. Fixing this one is only second priority :-)
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 21 at 3:28pm
Daggerboard rudders are good. I'd investigate whether the fixed blade can be converted into one. There's an article on making the stock on the UK Cherub web site. Its not too difficult a job.
If you're going to run a smaller rig I'd forget all the rig adjustment stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skslr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 21 at 12:24pm
PS: We did not find any serial number on the hull but one of the main sails shows sail number GBR 1272.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skslr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 21 at 10:01am
This week-end we had the mast up the first time...


Boom


The boom we bought separatey somehow has got two outhaul mechanisms we do not fully understand. One features a kind of lever at the front end of the boom. Maybe "Coarse" and "fine" control??? (In German we would call it "dead center lever", whatever that is in English...) Does anyone have an idea how this may have worked?

The vang already has got continuous control lines led to the transom, unfortunately the cleats "disappeared" at the previous owner...



Rigg

We reduced the 4 trapezes to only 2, the 3rd wire will serve as temporary forestay in the future. Neither the jib nor the rigg came with a forestay, so the jib seems to be from a different i14 and
features a zipper on the luff. We tried 4 mm Dynema but I suspect that a wire would be better to "forward" the rotations of the roller drum up the luff if that makes any sense.

The shroud tension control stuff will go away. I would like to remove the uppers together with the purchase and control lines as well, but SWMBO has not yet agreed to move the kite halyard block from the top of the mast to about forestay height yet... 

Another thing I do not fully understand is why this rigg needs lowers. As the gooseneck  is not far above the spaceframe and the mastfoot is level with the space frame (i.e. not on the cockpit floor as it was common back then), there is not a lot of "lever" for the boom to bend the mast/the mast is fixed on space frame level anyway. Any thoughts on this?



Other Fittings

The kite sheet ratched blocks and the halyard cleat "disappeared" as well... 
There are many turning blocks distributed through the whole lengths of the boat, presumably related to the fact that kite sock and boom reach so much further back into the cockpit than in most other dinghies. We are trying to understand the layout by looking at old pictures of another (however well sorted) Ovington Howlett 1 B.



Main

We tried our RS Feva-main. It kind of works at least ashore but there is a lot of excess height/length of mast/boom left :-). 



Edited by skslr - 19 Apr 21 at 10:03am
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 21 at 12:33pm
photos would help...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skslr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 21 at 8:42pm
Front end of boom:







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Post Options Post Options   Quote skslr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 21 at 8:43pm
Spaceframe with "mast stump":


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Post Options Post Options   Quote davidyacht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 21 at 8:48pm
Was a Selden boom with course and fine adjustment, not sure of the benefit, we had multi purchase inside of the boom onto a single cleat and turning block, since there was plenty to keep you busy rather than fiddle with the mainsail foot
Happily living in the past
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