Detuning a Penultimate International 14? |
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Lukepiewalker ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 May 06 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1340 |
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Until the 1996 unification foredecks weren't allowed, so spaceframes were very much the thing.
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Ex-Finn GBR533 "Pie Hard"
Ex-National 12 3253 "Seawitch" Ex-National 12 2961 "Curved Air" Ex-Mirror 59096 "Voodoo Chile" |
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6603 |
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It took some time to realise there were better ways of doing things. Its not so much that space frames are bad per se but that those big fabricated aluminium constructions were expensive and heavy, especially compared to having the same strength built into internal framing with carbon. And also the 14 rule set of the time tended to push people down odd paths. Neither expensive nor heavy were significant issues for the 14s of that period!
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skslr ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 24 Jul 06 Location: Germany Online Status: Offline Posts: 136 |
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This
week-end we weighed the hull: About 89
kgs is pretty goodto me, considering some blocks and the mainsheet base are missing
it should be more or less the minimum weight of 30 years ago. |
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6603 |
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Hmm, yes, I very much doubt that setup is original, but I would definitely want lowers with any distance of gooseneck above mast. The kicker load is going in the mast whatever.
The big question is what are you planning to do with mast and sails. And a second question, which you probably can't answer, is how well does the rig you've got actually work. A mainsail for a properly designed twin spreader rig will have entirely the wrong luff round to be used without caps, but there was a tendency in some classes and some places to just bung caps on a single spreader rig to hold up a kite downwind without much thought about upwind. In my opinion that was not a good rig, but if you have one taking caps off isn't an issue. |
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davidyacht ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 29 Mar 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1318 |
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Don’t think that the stump was original, the Ovy Howlett that we had 1301 still had a hog stepped mast
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Happily living in the past
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davidyacht ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 29 Mar 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1318 |
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Was a Selden boom with course and fine adjustment, not sure of the benefit, we had multi purchase inside of the boom onto a single cleat and turning block, since there was plenty to keep you busy rather than fiddle with the mainsail foot
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Happily living in the past
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skslr ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 24 Jul 06 Location: Germany Online Status: Offline Posts: 136 |
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Spaceframe with "mast stump":
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skslr ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 24 Jul 06 Location: Germany Online Status: Offline Posts: 136 |
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Front end of boom:
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6603 |
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photos would help...
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skslr ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 24 Jul 06 Location: Germany Online Status: Offline Posts: 136 |
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This week-end we had the mast up the first time... Boom The boom we bought separatey somehow has got two outhaul mechanisms we do not fully understand. One features a kind of lever at the front end of the boom. Maybe "Coarse" and "fine" control??? (In German we would call it "dead center lever", whatever that is in English...) Does anyone have an idea how this may have worked? The vang already has got continuous control lines led to the transom, unfortunately the cleats "disappeared" at the previous owner... Rigg We reduced the 4 trapezes to only 2, the 3rd wire will serve as temporary forestay in the future. Neither the jib nor the rigg came with a forestay, so the jib seems to be from a different i14 and features a zipper on the luff. We tried 4 mm Dynema but I suspect that a wire would be better to "forward" the rotations of the roller drum up the luff if that makes any sense. The shroud tension control stuff will go away. I would like to remove the uppers together with the purchase and control lines as well, but SWMBO has not yet agreed to move the kite halyard block from the top of the mast to about forestay height yet... Another thing I do not fully understand is why this rigg needs lowers. As the gooseneck is not far above the spaceframe and the mastfoot is level with the space frame (i.e. not on the cockpit floor as it was common back then), there is not a lot of "lever" for the boom to bend the mast/the mast is fixed on space frame level anyway. Any thoughts on this? Other Fittings The kite sheet ratched blocks and the halyard cleat "disappeared" as well... There are many turning blocks distributed through the whole lengths of the boat, presumably related to the fact that kite sock and boom reach so much further back into the cockpit than in most other dinghies. We are trying to understand the layout by looking at old pictures of another (however well sorted) Ovington Howlett 1 B. Main We tried our RS Feva-main. It kind of works at least ashore but there is a lot of excess height/length of mast/boom left :-). Edited by skslr - 19 Apr 21 at 10:03am |
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