British Virgin Islands, a taste of Caribbean cruising

by Freecruisingguides.com on 21 Sep 2014 The Virgin Islands are an archipelago. That part, which is a British overseas territory, is commonly referred to as the BVI. About 30,000 people live in the BVI, most of which live on the island of Tortola. The BVI are comprised of about 50 islands the majority of which are not inhabited by humans. For many cruisers, the BVI was their first taste of Caribbean cruising when they spent some time on a charter boat. The area is the home of the charter boat business and because it has been so cruised by so many for so long, many refer to it as the milk run south to Grenada as the 'beaten track.'

Sometimes people think that such a term is derogatory but in truth it is not. It just means that like wagon wheels going west in the USA during the migration of the 19th century, the path is well established. That brings us to our point – we have been there so many times that we now have our favorite anchorages and spots and the rest of it is 'seen it and did that.' If you want to see the BVI, a part of heaven for cruisers, you need only sail Sir Francis Drake Channel on a trade winds day and look around. A great sail in a protected channel with islands all around you. That is the beginning of seeing it for the very first time; the willingness to let the surroundings take you in.

You have been to the caves and gone to the Willy T for drinks. You have been to Pussers; perhaps more than one. And you went to the Bitter End in the North Sound of Virgin Gorda and swam in the baths as well; what more is there?

If you are an art lover and love murals, it is worth your time to go to the 'Great Wall' Fahie Hill at Ridge Road, Tortola. It is a community art project and features the work of local artists. The scenes represent the cultural history of the BVIs while at the same time making a concrete retaining wall beautiful. If you have not seen it; it is not your average paint job~it is exceptional.

While poking around in Tortola, visit the Callwood Distillery in Cane Garden Bay. Most who I tell this to, tell me they have been to enough distilleries in their life and do not need one more. Big mistake! What makes this distillery so very different and especially so for those that like rum, is that the flavoring of their rum is very distinctive and unlike any rum you have ever tasted. For a very small fee, they will let you sample a number of shots of different types. The original boiler still operates and produces rum!

If you need motivation, think of it as a happy hour tour at a cheap price.

Josiah’s Bay Plantation is on the north shore in a beautiful spot. Most sugar plantations on Tortola are beyond repair but the owner of this one has gone to great lengths to restore it. Many do not want to take the time to go to the bay, except perhaps for surfers as the bay is a big surfing spot, but the trip is well worth it. Or access it when you are anchored in White bay on Guana Island just to the northeast; about a mile and a half. The plantation has a restaurant, small art gallery of local artists, oils and prints, and a furniture gallery. It makes for a nice afternoon!

The Shell Museum is actually a restaurant and bar located in Carrot Bay. It is definitely homespun and if you have not been there, you have missed something special. The owner, Egbert, is like the thousands of shells he displays with hand lettered little signs; quite distinctive. The cuisine is above average and most believe far above average. Carrot Bay is located about a mile southwest of Cane Garden Bay.

The highest point on Tortola is Sage Mountain, 1716 feet. The area is known as the Sage Mountain National Park. It is a conservation preserve and at just short of 100 acres; sufficient in size to offer nature lovers a full day. The area includes a small rain forest, which like all rain forests tends to be misty. There are many of the original trees that populated the island before most were cut down by industry. The birds would have delighted Gould and Richter as well as they will you.

Don’t’ be lazy, the walk will do you good and the vistas will make your heart jump for joy.

Beyond Tortola, there are so many places in the BVI to poke around. One that is private and open only to hotel guests that is truly exceptional is Guana Island, just northeast of Tortola. The ad for the resort says 'imagine the Virgin Islands before they went public.' The 850 acre resort is quite private with beaches and hiking trails and very upscale. Cruisers can anchor in the lee of the island in White Bay. It is permitted; however the hotel does not cater to anyone but to the registered guests and technically the property is off limits. I have looked around discreetly and very much liked what I saw. If you dress up as a tree, no one will notice you!

Everyone loves Virgin Gorda although getting 'up there' is not always easy. I see so many cruisers (probably charterers) fighting the afternoon trades to make North Sound. I have never understood why they do not wait until early morning to go when the trade winds are down or if they do not draw too much, to use the back door entrance south of Mosquito Island. I hate to sound like an old fogey, notwithstanding that I am, but years past when you entered the sound you could see to the far side. Today, big mostly white elephantine motor yachts are anchored hither and thither. To make it worse, the Caribbean Trade Association is on record as wanting to encourage more to come because they bring $$$ into the local economy. Man does not eat by bread alone and North Sound is much the worse for their presence even if the Captain is wise enough not to discharge in the anchorage.

One of the areas that is most often overlooked by cruisers is the Gorda Peak National Park. At an elevation of 1,370 ft., Gorda Peak is one of the last remaining examples of Caribbean dry forest in the region and therefore is a high priority for conservation. The park is interesting for a number of reasons including that the vegetation varies with the elevation from dry scrub to greener landscape at higher elevations. The plants at the lower elevations have adapted to less water and to see how they have done it is to learn something new. If you are familiar with the Geiko Insurance company gecko; the one that speaks with an Aussie accent, perhaps this is his home base as the Virgin Gorda gecko thrives at the peak. The views from the summit are as good as the views from Sage Mountain on Tortola and on a clear day you can see Anegada. The hike up should take you about an hour.

One of the places in the BVI that is visited less is the island of Anegada. The island is not volcanic like the rest of the Virgin Islands; it is coral and limestone and the highest point is only 28’ above sea level. Suffice it to say that the small community that lives on the island usually vacates to Tortola when storms are announced. Many say that they sailed there and found nothing to do. The population of the island is small; about 200 which swells to near double that during tourist season. With a population that size a small jump up is a big thing. If you want to see the BVI for the very first time, you need to walk around and speak to a few that live there. Most of the time they are in no rush and if you care to strike up a conversation, most will accommodate you. Find out how their one room school house is doing or ask about their Christmas tree project. Find out what life is like on an island where the residents really do not have much more than each other. It is the very reason we go cruising and more often than not we forget that. Take a nap and listen to the sounds. Or if you are lucky and it is raining, take a long walk with the one you love and try to remember what we are doing and why we do it; let the oil change wait. Just go 'singin in the rain' and let the rest Free Cruising Guides